Monday, June 25, 2012

Strawberry Farm Start-up Guide



Starting a commercial strawberry farm takes interest, experience and capital. If you are planning to cultivate strawberries for profit, you must undertake intense preparation to get off to a good start.

Prepare yourself for this task by having your questions about strawberry farming answered reading our basic guide.

Strawberry Farm Startup Needs
Starting a commercial strawberry farm is not for everyone. It requires a special interest in strawberry farming and selling, years of experience in strawberry growing, and a lot of capital. You’d need some $1,000 to raise an acre of strawberries. You’d need to purchase or lease at least a few acres of land and get the equipment to cultivate a crop. You’d need a tractor, spreader, bedder, pickup truck, irrigation system, mowers, and sprayers. These equipments cost a lot if you buy them, that’s why some farmers opt to rent instead. More importantly, you have to have the experience in growing strawberries, perhaps by learning it from childhood if your family already owns an orchard or by working for one strawberry farm for a long time. Experience and knowledge are needed to grow a sensitive crop as a strawberry.

Strawberry Cultivation Basics
Strawberry planting and harvesting often can take up to a year. You’d need to go through several stages of planning, planting, cultivating and harvesting. To start a farm, you’d need to prepare your soil for strawberry growing. Check on the kind of soil you have by performing a soil test. Strawberries prefer loam soil, particularly sandy loam soil. Knowing your soil type and composition will help you decide how to prepare it for cultivation. You might need to broadcast lime in order to adjust its pH to the preferred pH strength of 6 by strawberries. Then you need to apply fertilizer and fumigate the soil to control weed growth. You’ll need to spray fungicides and insecticides later when the strawberries have grown. A major task in strawberry farming is the installation of irrigation and sprinkler system for the water needs of the plant. All these processes could take almost a year. But there are also varieties that ripen in shorter times. The Chandler variety is the most commonly preferred variety because of its adaptability to the climate.

Because of the complexity needed in growing a crop like strawberry, intense preparation is necessary. In order to successfully start a farm, someone planning to do so should come up with a business plan to contain all the necessary aspects of the business. The business plan should include information on what kind of strawberry farming system will be used, the orchard layout, the farming timetable, marketing strategy and the financial analysis for the farm.

The financial aspect should include the variable costs for seeds, fertilizer, pesticide, labor, and overhead; and the fixed costs such as money spent for acquiring land, and paying depreciation, taxes and insurance.

Top 10 cellulite-busting foods

 

01) Ginger

One cause of cellulite is poor circulation, so eating foods such as ginger that boost blood flow can help to improve its appearance. As well as being good for circulation, ginger is also good for detoxification and strengthening the lymphatic system, which can help with the circulation of lymph fluid and toxins that can accumulate in fat pockets under the skin, contributing to the bumpy appearance of cellulite.

02) Asparagus

Asparagus is another food with circulation-boosting properties. On top of this, asparagus is a great stress reliever due to its abundance of folic acid, which can help to stabilise a stressful mood. As prolonged levels of stress can increase fat storage on the body, adding foods such as asparagus to your diet can help to reduce the appearance of cellulite.

03) Avocados

While anyone fat, thin, young or old can suffer from cellulite, ageing does tend to increase the visibility of cellulite due to the loss of elasticity and thinning of skin. Therefore, try eating foods rich in Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) which can help to strengthen skin and keep it supple and elastic. Avocados are a particularly rich source of EFAs, as well as being high in many essential nutrients.

04) Oily fish

Another top food for keeping the skin in good condition is oily fish, which is high in skin-strengthening omega-3 fatty acids. As an added bonus, the fatty acids present in oily fish are also good for reducing inflammation and boosting the cardiovascular and lymphatic systems, making them a good choice for keeping cellulite at bay.

05) Dark, leafy greens

Dark green leafy vegetables such as spinach and kale are rich in an antioxidant called lutein, which research has shown is good for helping the skin to retain its moisture and elasticity and increase its lipid levels - all good news for those suffering from cellulite. On top of this, leafy greens are nutrient-rich and are good for the circulation and detoxification.

06) Cranberry juice

A sluggish lymphatic system is one of the primary causes of cellulite, so those wishing to reduce its appearance should try boosting their intake of cranberry juice, which is noted for its abilities to cleanse the lymph system. This powerful juice helps to emulsify stubborn fat deposits in the lymphatic system so that they are more easily flushed out the system.

07) Bananas

Bananas are a rich source of potassium, which is helpful for reducing cellulite in many ways. Firstly, potassium helps to reduce water retention which can be a leading cause of cellulite. Furthermore, potassium can help to support the lymphatic system and ensure it works efficiently at circulating fluid and cleansing the body of impurities.

08) Whole grains

Whole grains are packed with fibre, which is an essential for keeping your body running smoothly. Fibre helps speed up the process of detoxification and clear out waste products that can build up in your system, often leading to cellulite. Eating whole grains also helps to keep the heart healthy and boost circulation to cellulite-prone areas.

09) Papaya

Eating plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables is one of the best ways to detox the body and reduce the appearance of cellulite, and papaya is a particularly good choice of fruit. Papaya is not only rich in potassium - one of the most important nutrients when it comes to battling cellulite - but it is also high in antioxidant beta-carotene, which can help prevent damage to body tissue.

10) Berries

To help keep skin firm and taut and disguise the appearance of cellulite, try adding some vitamin C to your diet to help boost your skin's collagen levels. Berries are a particularly good source of vitamin C, as well as being extremely high in the antioxidants necessary for fighting toxic waste, which can slow down the lymphatic system and accumulate in cellulite-prone areas. Read more on realbuzz.com...

Monday, May 28, 2012

How to grow tomatoes

The Gardener Within: Master Gardener Joe Lamp'l shares tips and advice on growing productive tomato plants.

• Support the plants. Tomatoes are vines and want to lay their fruit on the ground to spread seeds as far as possible; we gardeners want that fruit for ourselves. For indeterminate vines, which keep growing all season long, surround each plant with sturdy 6-foot-tall, concrete reinforcing wire rolled into 18-, 20- and 22-inch-diameter cages, or wider if you prefer. (The varying sizes will nest together for storage in the winter.) Use a 6-inch mesh so you can reach into the cages to harvest. Determinate or bush types of tomatoes are self-supporting and just need a lightweight 3-foot-tall cage or stake.
• Encourage the fruit. New plants putting on lots of foliage need watering about twice a week. Now that fruit has started to set, cut irrigation frequency by half, but apply the same amount of water during each session. If tomatoes dry out between waterings, they take up too much water too quickly the next time it's available, and the fruit can crack and split. Irrigate slowly and gently to let the water percolate into the soil, encourage deep roots and keep the leaves dry.
• Control the growth. Prune back indeterminate vines now. Reducing the vines' mass helps prevent disease, and puts more energy into developing fruit. I know it's hard to pinch off all those new blossoms at the ends of the vines, but they won't have time to fully develop tomatoes before frost anyway, and the flowers take energy away from the more mature fruits.
• Pinch off new suckers, side shoots that grow from the crotch where a branch joins the stem. If left to grow, they'll form more stems and branches, overcrowding the cages and wasting energy needed for ripening fruit. Determinate-type tomatoes really don't need pruning or thinning. When they reach a certain height they stop growing, and don't set fruit until the bush is fully grown, when they set their tomatoes all at once.
• Watch for disease. Weather is a big factor in diseases, and hot, muggy conditions will encourage disease. Early Blight is a fungus that attacks leaves, stems and fruit. Dark, concentric rings show up on mature leaves first, with yellow patches in the surrounding tissue. The leaves die and expose developing fruit to sun scald. Early Blight overwinters in plant debris and in the soil, so remove all infected plants and thoroughly clean up the garden in the fall. Copper- or sulfur-based fungicide sprays help keep the disease from spreading.
Septoria Leaf Spot shows up as wet, raised, papery patches on the leaves, with tiny dark specks inside the margins. The lower, more mature leaves are affected first, and eventually the plant will lose foliage and expose the tomatoes to sun scald. Copper-based fungicides are effective at stopping the symptoms.
• Control the bugs. Any number of insects show up later in the season to feast on tomatoes. One of the most recognized is the hornworm: a large pale-green worm with a black "horn" growth on the rear end. Tobacco hornworms have a red horn, but will do just as much damage to your tomato crop.
By now the first generation of caterpillars will have dropped to the soil, pupated and emerged as sphinx or hummingbird moths to lay smooth, oval, light-green eggs on the upper and lower sides of leaves. The larvae blend in with the foliage and are hard to spot, but handpicking them is the best way to deal with these destructive eating machines. Go hunting after dark; hornworms feed mostly at night.
Parasitic braconid wasps (Cotesia congregatus) can also be used to attack and lay eggs on hornworm larvae, killing them. Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Bt) strain is sold as a spray you apply to the plant's leaves. The hornworm consumes the treated foliage and soon stops eating and dies. Bt is harmless to bees, lacewings, ladybugs and other beneficials, but will kill all caterpillars, so be sure to keep it from butterfly plants. Bt is sold under the trade names Dipel, Thuricide and Green Step.
Joe Lamp'l, host of "Growing a Greener World"on PBS, is a Master Gardener and author. For more information visit www.joegardener.com.

66 Things You Can Grow In Containers


Growing your own food is exciting, not only because you get to see things grow from nothing into ready-to-eat fruits and veggies, but you also don't have to worry about the pesticides they might contain, and you definitely cut down on the miles they -- and you -- have to travel.

As it turns out, with pretty minimal effort, anyone can be a gardener. My boyfriend and I are essentially first-timers this season and so far have the beginnings of strawberries peeking out, tomatoes are on their way, the basil's about ready for a big batch of pesto, and once the last frost hits, the peppers, kale, spinach, chard, and mesclun will be on their way, too. All on a tiiiny little terrace (with the help of a little DIY carpentry).

If you're up to the challenge -- and it really isn't much of one -- growing your own food can be so rewarding. And so much cheaper! Just be sure to choose the right planter or container, learn how to maintain it properly, and go find yourself some seeds (or starter plants)!

Here's a starter list of all the crazy things even urban gardeners, without space for a garden, can grow at home.

Tree Fruits - Including Apples


1. Apples can be grown in a container; you can also grow them on the balcony or other small space using a technique called espaliering.
2. Kumquats
3. Avocados (plenty of extra tips online if you search)
4. Blackberries
5. Blueberries (sometimes helpful videos are available online)
6. Pomegranate
7. Cherries
8. Figs
9. Pears

Citrus Fruits


Citrus trees in particular are said to be good for beginning gardeners and are easy to grow indoors, so don't let inexperience or lack of outdoor space stop you from enjoying fresh-picked, hyper-local fruit.
10. Dwarf oranges
11. Grapefruit
12. Tangerines
13. Meyer Lemons
14. Limes

Tropical Fruits


Tropical fruits can also be surprisingly easy to grow indoors, even in non-tropical climates. Such as...

15. Bananas (look for container gardening tips online)
16. Pineapple
17. Papaya
18.Gurvas (several varieties)

The Real Surprises


19. Hops -- yes, as in the “spice” ingredient in beer. Turns out they're easy to grow!
20. Aloe Vera
21. Strawberries
22. Tea (well, herbal tea)
23. Quinoa!

The Non-Surprises


24. Tomatoes
25. Summer Squash
26. Other Squashes, like Acorn and Pumpkin
27. Hot Peppers
28. Sweet Peppers
29. Cucumbers

Melons


30. Small Cantaloupe
31. Jenny Lind Melon (an heirloom cantaloupe)
32. Golden Midget Watermelon

Herbs


Just about any herb grows well indoors -- just be sure that if you're going to do any container-sharing, you do your research first about which herbs co-habitate well together. (Some will hog water, for example, and leave the others dried out.)

33. Basil
34. Oregano
35. Parsley
36. Rosemary
37. Chives
38. Catnip
39. Thyme
40. Sage
41. Parsley

Leafy Greens


42. Kale
43. Mesculun Greens
44. Spinach
45. Swiss Chard
46. Lettuces (plenty of options there, from micro-greens to head or loose-leaf)
47. Mustard greens
48. Collard greens
49. Arugula

Root Vegetables


50. Carrots
51. Beets
52. Potatoes

Other Healthy-sounding Stuff


53. Sprouts
54. More sprouts: mung bean and lentil sprouts
55. Wheatgrass
56. Kohlrabi
57. Turnips
58. Rutabagas
59. Celeriac
60. Parsnips
61. Jerusalem Artichoke
62. Sugar snap peas
63. Rhubarb (not ideal in a container, but it can work)
64. Mushrooms (again, more tips online if you look)
65. Pole Beans
66. Aaaand... asparagus, although some disagree that it does well in a container. Try it if you're ok with a risk!

Bonus


67. You can grow your own loofah, too, but you'd need a garden rather than a container for that.

Like this idea? Be sure to check out these 6 Crazy Concepts for Micro Gardens That Actually Work to get inspiration for designing your own garden in a small space. While you're at it, check in with this Organic Gardening feature for tons more info on making your garden grow.

by Planet Green

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Smart Farming

Unlock your dairy farm future now
For DeLaval smart farming is about empowering today’s dairy farmers with the decision tools and automation technologies that seamlessly integrate products, services and knowledge for better quality milk, herd management, productivity and profit.
Smart Farming is about innovation. It is about innovative - and not least integrated - decision tools and automation that support farm management.
Efficient use of resources on farm should lead to both increased revenue, in terms of higher milk production and improved cost control. And that's farm profitability, one of the key pillars of Sustainable Dairy Farming.

From milking management to total farm management

We understand that the challenge faced by dairy farmers around the world is how to meet an economic future that is already now being defined by scale and efficiency.
Your success tomorrow as a dairy farmer will be all about how you harness automation and information technology to create an on-farm integrated productivity and profit-driving system that embraces more than milking.

A range of innovative solutions

DeLaval today already offers a fast growing range of innovative automation solutions geared to revitalise dairy farming. And the way dairy farmers make optimal use of their time.
Our smart farming goal is about bringing dairy farmers the innovative ideas and technologies that already now are helping to create a more productive, sustainable and profitable future.
DeLaval is the only supplier in the industry that can provide solutions to satisfy a holistic view of farm profitability through the seven areas of Smart Farming : Know your herd, feed right, milk smart, secure milk quality, take care of your animals, make your farm a good place for your animals and your staff, and service your equipment.

7  core areas of Smart Farming


Saffron Cultivation

Saffron is cultivated mostly in the himalayas.

The cultivation of saffron needs an extreme climate; hot and dry weather in summer and cold in winter.

The land must be dry, calcareous, aired, flat and without trees. Attributes that the Meseta of Castilla-La Mancha has, which has made it one of the most important production areas in the world.


The soil must be equilibrated in organic material in order to avoid risks of erosion, and have some depth that allows the water to drain so that the bulb is not damaged.

The sowing takes place in the months of June and July. The bulbs are placed in ridges of about 20 cm. depth. The distance between the bulbs should be of 10 cm.

The sowing of bulbs is a very hard job because it is done by hand, and forces you to walk in a bent position for hundreds of yards. A mule follows the sower with a roman plough to cover the ridges.

The harvesting takes place between the end of October-beginning of November. The rose of saffron blooms at dawn and should stay the least possible time in the plant because it withers quickly and the stigmas loose color and aroma. This is why they are gathered between dawn and 10 a.m.

Once the flowers are gathered, stigmas are separated from the rest of the flower. The fact that more than 85.000 flowers are needed to obtain just one kilo of saffron gives us an idea of how hard this work is.
 
Saffron can be well grown in Kashmir.In gujarat it can be grown only in the winter.
Saffron cultivation is done on a cyclical basis, and that after the lapse of seven to nine years, the land in question should be switched to another crop such as grains for a period of approximately seven years so that the land can restore its lost nutrients.

Studies done on the production of saffron indicate that the maturity or age of land has a direct bearing on the volume of production, and that after the lapse of approximately seven years from the outset of cultivation, the land's productivity begins to decline. However the average harvest from every hectare of land is between 20 to 25 kg under normal conditions. Between the second and the seventh year, the production would fluctuate from 5 to 20 kg per hectare, and that from every 1,000 grams of flower, some one percent or 10 grams of saffron is obtained.

The harvest of saffron requires extensive manpower, and is generally regarded as a labor-intensive endeavor and includes three stages as follows.

The harvest of saffron crop begins with picking of the blossoms and separating the stigmas from them. The harvest period is traditionally from late September to the late December. The process should begin early in the morning before sunrise, and the period within which the blossoms are at their maximum are from 15 to 20 days. The stigmas thus collected are placed in shade in a warm and dried room for five to seven days in order to dry. In some cases the drying is done in a ritual of roasting. And finally, after the stigmas are dried, they are variously packed and stored away from light and humidity.

Saffron is a sweet-smelling herb with a strong exotic aroma and a bitter taste. It is used to color and flavor a great number of dishes, extensively in pharmaceutical industry and a number of others.

Saffron has been used over the centuries as a natural coloring and aromatic in food, pastries and drinks. It is used in the making of tonic and digestive liqueurs to which it adds its golden color, as well as its lovely taste and smell. It is used in the Mediterranean and Oriental dishes particularly rice, chicken and fish. It is also used in the preparation of special kinds of English, Scandinavian and Balkan breads. In general, saffron can be used as a value adding and important ingredient of any good style or custom of cooking or eating, with no limitations in its use.

Cultivation

Saffron crocuses under cultivation in Italy.The saffron crocus thrives in climates similar to that of the Mediterranean maquis or the North American chaparral, where hot, dry summer breezes blow across arid and semi-arid lands. Nevertheless, the plant can tolerate cold winters, surviving frosts as cold as −10°C and short periods of snow cover. However, if not grown in wet environments like Kashmir (where rainfall averages 1000–1500 mm annually), irrigation is needed—this is true in the saffron-growing regions of Greece (500 mm of rainfall annually) and Spain (400 mm). Rainfall timing is also key: generous spring rains followed by relatively dry summers are optimal. In addition, rainfall occurring immediately prior to flowering also boosts saffron yields; nevertheless, rainy or cold weather occurring during flowering promotes disease, thereby reducing yields. Persistently damp and hot conditions also harm yields,as do the digging actions of rabbits, rats, and birds. Parasites such as nematodes, leaf rusts, and corm rot also pose significant threats.

Country Yield (kg/ha)
Spain 6–29
Italy 10–16
Greece 4–7
India 2–7
Morocco 2.0–2.5


Saffron plants—faring poorly in shady conditions—grow best in strong and direct sunlight. Thus, planting is best done in fields that slope towards the sunlight (i.e. south-sloping in the Northern Hemisphere), maximizing the crocuses' sun exposure. In the Northern Hemisphere, planting is mostly done in June, with corms planted some 7–15 cm deep. Planting depth and corm spacing—along with climate—are both critical factors impacting plant yields. Thus, mother corms planted more deeply yield higher-quality saffron, although they produce fewer flower buds and daughter corms. With such knowledge, Italian growers have found that planting corms 15 cm deep and in rows spaced 2–3 cm apart optimizes threads yields, whereas planting depths of 8–10 cm optimizes flower and corm production. Meanwhile, Greek, Moroccan, and Spanish growers have devised different depths and spacings to suit their own climates.

Saffron crocuses grow best in friable, loose, low-density, well-watered, and well-drained clay-calcareous soils with high organic content. Raised beds are traditionally used to promote good drainage. Historically, soil organic content was boosted via application of some 20–30 tonnes of manure per hectare. Afterwards—and with no further manure application—corms were planted. After a period of dormancy through the summer, the corms send up their narrow leaves and begin to bud in autumn. Only in October (in the Northern Hemisphere) do the plants begin to flower. Harvesting of flowers is by necessity a speedy affair: after their flowering at dawn, flowers quickly wilt as the day passes. Furthermore, saffron crocuses bloom within a narrow window spanning one or two weeks. Approximately 150 flowers yield 1 g of dry saffron threads; to produce 12 g of dried saffron (72 g freshly harvested), 1 kg of flowers are needed. On average, freshly-picked flowers yield 0.03 g of fresh saffron, or 0.007 g of dried saffron.

Saffron (Crocus sativus var kashmiriana) is a very important high value low volume condiment and a cash crop of Kashmir. Its cultivation started around 550 AD. As late as 1997-98 area under saffron in Jammu & Kashmir was about 5704 ha. Saffron being a rainfed crop suffered due to droughts like situation in the Valley, 1999-2003. As a result both area as well as productivity has reduced. It is predominantly cultivated in Pampore area of Pulwama district; some is grown in Kishtwar area of Doda district and some pockets in Budgam district. During drought period productivity reduced from about 3.0 kg/ha to 1.5 kg/ha in 2003. However, favorable rainfall during 2004-2005 situations improved and saffron production was 125 q with productivity increased to 2.5 kg/ha. Current area under saffron is 3885 ha. Average holding of saffron farmer in Pampore is 0.56 ha. Experiments on increasing saffron productivity by Sher-e-Kashmir University of Agricultural Sciences & Technology of Kashmir through irrigation during reproductive phase @ 70 m3/ha every 7-10 days; application of nutrients, 20 t/ha of organic manure along with 30 : 20 : 15 NPK, use of corms of 10 g or larger yielded 3.5 kg/ha. Planting cycle in vogue is too long 7-10 years which if reduced to 4-5 years can reduce incidence of corm rot, one of the factors responsible for loss of productivity and net returns. Government of J&K proposes to launch a horizontal expansion of saffron cultivation in all the six districts of Kashmir Valley and the Kishtwar area of district Doda. Saffron is cultivated exclusively on Karewa (geological silt deposits) at an altitude ranging between 1600 to 1750m amsl.
Cost benefit analysis of saffron cultivation depending upon productivity ranges between 1:0.69–1:1.39. Cost input in cultivation of saffron is very high labor component accounts for 47 % and inputs 53 %. Labor in monetary terms on average comes to Rs 87,250/ha (1783.3 US$/ha). It is rather excessive (Tables 1, 2), demanding mechanization through appropriate tools, implements and machines which not only reduce excessive labor but remove drudgery so that educated new generation continues to practice saffron cultivation. Mechanization can also bring precision in metering and placement of inputs, help reduce unit cost of production and enhance productivity. 

Please visit to below websites to get information on saffron.

http://www.saffron-spain.com/ingles/...n.html#cultivo

http://www.indianspices.com/html/s062csfn.htm

http://www.uni-graz.at/~katzer/engl/Croc_sat.html
 

Saffron, Zaffron




Saffron, Zaffron


<pic 01 >
Saffron [saf-fron] the spice used in oh-so-many Arabic dishes, originates from the saffron crocus, a plant which bears just three stigmas.

Described as tasting like metallic honey with grassy or hay-like notes, fresh saffron stamens are vivid crimson in colour, contain a slight moistness and elasticity. The stamens are picked and once dried are added to food and textiles to produce a rich luminous yellow-orange colour:
<pic 02 >


Cost
Saffron has long been the world's most expensive spice and is sold by weight. Saffron prices range from around US$1,100 /kg (wholesale) to US$11,000 /kg (retail), equvialent to £5,500 or €7,500 per kilogram. Saffron costs £3.80 for a ½ gram in one UK supermarket, which translates into £7,600 per kilo


"A man who is stingy with saffron is capable of seducing his own grandmother."

Norman Douglas,
English Writer (1868-1952)


Picking Saffron
Half a kilo of dry saffron requires the picking of 50,000 to 75,000 flowers (about the size of a football field)

<pic  03><pic 04 ><pic 05 ><pic 06 >

and is said to take around 20 hours. Stigmas are picked, dried and then stored in airtight containers.
<pic 07 ><pic 08 >

Saffron is graded by crocin (colour), picrocrocin (taste), and safranal (fragrance). Additional extras such as, 'floral waste content' and inorganic material for example, 'ash' also dertmine the grade.

Grading standards are set by the International Organization for Standardization, with ISO 3632 being used only to describe saffron's colour intensity.
<pic 09 >

Location
Most saffron is grown in an area of land which streches from the Mediterranean to Kashmir. Around 300 tonnes of saffron are produced worldwide each year, with Iran having the largest harvest (94 percent of world production).

America, Spain, Morocco, Italy, Greece, Azerbaijan, India and China all produce saffron too, see map below:

<pic 10 >

N.B. the darker the colour red, the more saffron is grown (pink indicates very small quantities)


Saffron in Food
Saffron is widely used to flavour rice and meat dishes in Iranian (Persian), Arab, Central Asian, Pakistani, Indian and Turkish food, with various methods being used to extract the colour and flavour:

1 - toast; dry roast the saffron and then soak in warmed milk for about half an hour, but this can be extended to two hours. Infusion is then added to the dish
2 - soak; add saffron to warm water for about half an hour and then tip the entire contents into the food/dish
3 - add the stamens to the food directly.
<pic 11 >

"I must have saffron to colour the warden pies;
mace; dates? none, that's out of my note;
nutmegs, seven; a race or two of ginger,
but that I may beg;
four pound of prunes, and as many of raisins o' the sun."
William Shakespeare (1564-1616)
Act IV, scene III, 'The Winter's Tale'


Saffron Rice
2 cups basmati rice
1 teaspoon saffron threads + 3 tablespoons boiling water
6 tablespoons butter
several cinnamon sticks
1 cup finely chopped onion (fried until golden)
2 teaspoons salt
6 - 8 cardamoms, cracked open
<pic 12 ><pic 13 >



Place the saffron in a small bowl and cover with 3 tablespoons of boiling water. Soak for 30 minutes.

Wash rice until the water runs clear {see wgaw: COOKING RICE CAN TAKE SOME TIME}, put in boiling water and wait until the rice is just past al-dente.

While the rice is cooking, saute the onions until they turn slightly brown (golden)

Boil the rice until it is almost soft, but has a slightly hard bit in the middle. Remove the rice from the ring and put in a sieve. Wash the rice with cold water to stop it cooking

Dry the saucepan and add butter, ghee or margarine to the bottom of the pan and put on the ring to warm.  Add the cardamons, cinamon and the saffron and its soaking water

When the fat is melted, put the rice in the pan and warm on a low heat for an hour or so

Fluff and serve hot.


Saffron Tea
Tea is brewed as normal; tea is placed in a tea pot, however the smallest ammount of saffron is infused with the tea leaves.  Brew for upto 20 minutes and pour into small glass tea cups, with sugar being added to taste.  Leave the saffron threads in the liquid.

<pic 14 >

Storing Saffron
Because saffron is sensitive to light and moisture it should be stored in a container away from sunlight. Saffron easily absorbs other flavors and odours - be sure to clean any container before you use it to store saffron.

<pic 15 >

Historical Uses of Saffron
Saffron-based pigments were used as dyes and have been found in 50,000 year-old cave paintings in in Iran and Iraq.  Saffron has also been used as a fabric dye; Buddhist monks in India adopted saffron-coloured robes. However, the robes were not dyed with costly saffron but turmeric, a less expensive dye, or jackfruit.

Saffron threads would be scattered across beds and mixed into hot teas as a curative for bouts of melancholy. Historically, saffron's use as a drugging agent and aphrodisiac were feared.

During his Asian campaigns, Alexander the Great used saffron in his baths as a curative for battle wounds. Alexander's troops imitated the practice
Medicinally saffron has long been part of the traditional healing tradition; Sumerians used saffron in their remedies and magical potions.

Apparently modern medicine uses saffron as both an anticarcinogenic (cancer-suppressing) agent, as well as an anti-mutagenic (mutation-preventing).  Early studies show that saffron may protect the eyes from retinal stress and slow down macular degeneration.


Saffron Translated
Arabic 'Zaferan'
Farsi 'Zefrun' (in Persian,'zarparan' means a flower with a stigma which has a value equvialent to gold)
French 'Safrane'
Indian 'Zuffron'
Italian 'Zaferano'
Spanish 'Azafran'
Tamil 'Gnaazhal poo'
Turkish 'Zefrun'
 

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