Keep Vegetables Fresh

How to Store Vegetables & Fruit Without Plastic

So you've got all these great fruits and vegetables and now we're going to help you keep them at their freshest with these tips. These tips are from the Berkley Farmer's Market which is a Zero Waste market! Here is a printable PDF of their original tip sheet. In the works here at Washington's Green Grocer is a switch from plastic bags (although we use as few as we can get away with, while still keeping your produce from getting battered on it's way to you) to only recyclable paper and reuseable cloth bags!

How to Store Vegetables without Plastic

Artichokes‐ place in an airtight container sealed, with light moisture.
Asparagus‐ place them loosely in a glass or bowl upright with water at room temperature. (Will keep for a week outside the fridge)
Avocados‐ place in a paper bag at room temp. To speed up their ripening‐ place an apple in the bag with them.
Arugula‐ arugula, like lettuce, should not stay wet! Dunk in cold water and spin or lay flat to dry. Place dry arugula in an open container, wrapped with a dry towel to absorb any extra moisture.
Basil‐ is difficult to store well. Basil does not like the cold, or to be wet for that matter. The best method here is an airtight container/jar loosely packed with a small damp piece of paper inside‐left out on a cool counter.
Beans, shelling‐ open container in the fridge, eat ASAP. Some recommend freezing them if not going to eat right away
Beets‐ cut the tops off to keep beets firm, (be sure to keep the greens!)by leaving any top on root vegetables draws moisture from the root, making them loose flavor and firmness. Beets should be washed and kept in and open container with a wet towel on top.
Beet greens‐ place in an airtight container with a little moisture.
Broccoli‐ place in an open container in the fridge or wrap in a damp towel before placing in the fridge.
Broccoli Rabe‐ left in an open container in the crisper, but best used as soon as possible.
Brussels Sprouts‐ If bought on the stalk leave them on that stalk. Put the stalk in the fridge or leave it on a cold place. If they’re bought loose store them in an open container with a damp towel on top.
Cabbage‐ left out on a cool counter is fine up to a week, in the crisper otherwise. Peel off outer leaves if they start to wilt. Cabbage might begin to loose its moisture after a week , so, best used as soon as possible.
Carrots‐ cut the tops off to keep them fresh longer. Place them in closed container with plenty of moisture, either wrapped in a damp towel or dunk them in cold water every couple of days if they’re stored that long.
Cauliflower‐ will last a while in a closed container in the fridge, but they say cauliflower has the best flavor the day it’s bought.
Celery‐ does best when simply places in a cup or bowl of shallow water on the counter.
Celery root/Celeriac‐ wrap the root in a damp towel and place in the crisper.
Corn‐ leave unhusked in an open container if you must, but corn really is best eaten sooner then later for maximum flavor.
Cucumber‐ wrapped in a moist towel in the fridge. If you’re planning on eating them within a day or two after buying them they should be fine left out in a cool room.
Eggplant‐ does fine left out in a cool room. Don’t wash it, eggplant doesn’t like any extra moisture around its leaves. For longer storage‐ place loose, in the crisper.
Fava beans‐ place in an air tight container.
Fennel‐ if used within a couple days after it’s bought fennel can be left out on the counter, upright in a cup or bowl of water (like celery). If wanting to keep longer than a few days place in the fridge in a closed container with a little water.
Garlic‐ store in a cool, dark, place.
Green garlic‐an airtight container in the fridge or left out for a day or two is fine, best before dried out.
Greens‐ remove any bands, twist ties, etc. most greens must be kept in an air‐tight container with a damp cloth‐ to keep them from drying out. Kale, collards, and chard even do well in a cup of water on the counter or fridge.
Green beans‐ they like humidity, but not wetness. A damp cloth draped over an open or loosely closed container.
Green Tomatoes‐ store in a cool room away from the sun to keep them green and use quickly or they will begin to color.
Herbs- a closed container in the fridge to kept up to a week. Any longer might encourage mold.
Lettuce‐ keep damp in an airtight container in the fridge.
Leeks‐leave in an open container in the crisper wrapped in a damp cloth or in a shallow cup of water on the counter (just so the very bottom of the stem has water).
Okra‐ doesn’t like humidity. So a dry towel in an airtight container. Doesn’t store that well, best eaten quickly after purchase
Onion‐ store in a cool, dark and dry, place‐ good air circulation is best, so don’t stack them.
Parsnips‐an open container in the crisper, or, like a carrot, wrapped in a damp cloth in the fridge.
Potatoes‐ (like garlic and onions) store in cool, dark and dry place, such as, a box in a dark corner of the pantry; a paper bag also works well.
Radicchio‐ place in the fridge in an open container with a damp cloth on top.
Radishes‐ remove the greens (store separately) so they don’t draw out excess moisture from the roots and place them in a open container in the fridge with a wet towel placed on top.
Rhubarb‐wrap in a damp towel and place in an open container in the refrigerator.
Rutabagas‐ in an ideal situation a cool, dark, humid root cellar or a closed container in the crisper to keep their moisture in.
Snap peas‐ refrigerate in an open container
Spinach‐ store loose in an open container in the crisper, cool as soon as possible. Spinach loves to stay cold.
Spring onions‐ Remove any band or tie and place in the crisper.
Summer Squash‐ does fine for a few days if left out on a cool counter, even after cut.
Sweet peppers‐ Only wash them right before you plan on eating them as wetness decreases storage time. Store in a cool room to use in a couple a days, place in the crisper if longer storage needed.
Sweet Potatoes‐ Store in a cool, dark, well‐ventilated place. Never refrigerate‐‐sweet potatoes don’t like the cold.
Tomatoes‐ Never refrigerate. Depending on ripeness, tomatoes can stay for up to two weeks on the counter. To hasten ripeness place in a paper bag with an apple.
Turnips‐ remove the greens (store separately) same as radishes and beets, store them in an open container with a moist cloth.
Winter squash‐store in a cool, dark, well ventilated place. Many growers say winter squashes get sweeter if they’re stored for a week or so before eaten.
Zucchini‐ does fine for a few days if left out on a cool counter, even after cut. Wrap in a cloth and refrigerate for longer storage.

HOW TO STORE FRUIT WITHOUT PLASTIC

Apples‐ store on a cool counter or shelf for up to two weeks. For longer storage in a cardboard box in the fridge.
Citrus‐ store in a cool place, with good airflow, never in an air‐tight container.
Apricots‐ on a cool counter to room temperature or fridge if fully ripe
Cherries‐store in an airtight container. Don’t wash cherries until ready to eat, any added moisture encourages mold.
Berries-Don’t forget, they’re fragile. When storing be careful not to stack too many high, a single layer if possible. A paper bag works well, only wash before you plan on eating them.
Dates‐dryer dates (like Deglet Noor) are fine stored out on the counter in a bowl or the paper bag they were bought in. Moist dates (like Medjool) need a bit of refrigeration if they’re going to be stored over a week, either in cloth or a paper bag‐ as long as it’s porous to keeping the moisture away from the skin of the dates.
Figs‐ Don’t like humidity, so, no closed containers. A paper bag works to absorb excess moisture, but a plate works best in the fridge up to a week un‐stacked.
Melons‐ uncut in a cool dry place, out of the sun up to a couple weeks. Cut melons should be in the fridge, an open container is fine.
Nectarines‐ (similar to apricots) store in the fridge is okay if ripe, but best taken out a day or two before you plan on eating them so they soften to room temperature.
Peaches (and most stone fruit)‐ refrigerate only when fully ripe. More firm fruit will ripen on the counter.
Pears‐ will keep for a few weeks on a cool counter, but fine in a paper bag. To hasten the ripening put an apple in with them.
Persimmon –Fuyu‐(shorter/pumpkin shaped): store at room temperature.–Hachiya‐ (longer/pointed end): room temperature until completely mushy. The astringentness of them only subsides when they are completely ripe. To hasten the ripening process place in a paper bag with a few apples for a week, check now and then, but don’t stack‐they get very fragile when really ripe.
Pomegranates‐ keep up to a month stored on a cool counter.
Strawberries‐ Don’t like to be wet. Do best in a paper bag in the fridge for up to a week. Check the bag for moisture every other day.
Coutesy : washingtonsgreengrocer

How to grow tomatoes

The Gardener Within: Master Gardener Joe Lamp'l shares tips and advice on growing productive tomato plants.

By JOE LAMP'L

 Here are some tips to keep your tomato plants healthy and productive.

• Support the plants. Tomatoes are vines and want to lay their fruit on the ground to spread seeds as far as possible; we gardeners want that fruit for ourselves. For indeterminate vines, which keep growing all season long, surround each plant with sturdy 6-foot-tall, concrete reinforcing wire rolled into 18-, 20- and 22-inch-diameter cages, or wider if you prefer. (The varying sizes will nest together for storage in the winter.) Use a 6-inch mesh so you can reach into the cages to harvest. Determinate or bush types of tomatoes are self-supporting and just need a lightweight 3-foot-tall cage or stake.
• Encourage the fruit. New plants putting on lots of foliage need watering about twice a week. Now that fruit has started to set, cut irrigation frequency by half, but apply the same amount of water during each session. If tomatoes dry out between waterings, they take up too much water too quickly the next time it's available, and the fruit can crack and split. Irrigate slowly and gently to let the water percolate into the soil, encourage deep roots and keep the leaves dry.
• Control the growth. Prune back indeterminate vines now. Reducing the vines' mass helps prevent disease, and puts more energy into developing fruit. I know it's hard to pinch off all those new blossoms at the ends of the vines, but they won't have time to fully develop tomatoes before frost anyway, and the flowers take energy away from the more mature fruits.
• Pinch off new suckers, side shoots that grow from the crotch where a branch joins the stem. If left to grow, they'll form more stems and branches, overcrowding the cages and wasting energy needed for ripening fruit. Determinate-type tomatoes really don't need pruning or thinning. When they reach a certain height they stop growing, and don't set fruit until the bush is fully grown, when they set their tomatoes all at once.
• Watch for disease. Weather is a big factor in diseases, and hot, muggy conditions will encourage disease. Early Blight is a fungus that attacks leaves, stems and fruit. Dark, concentric rings show up on mature leaves first, with yellow patches in the surrounding tissue. The leaves die and expose developing fruit to sun scald. Early Blight overwinters in plant debris and in the soil, so remove all infected plants and thoroughly clean up the garden in the fall. Copper- or sulfur-based fungicide sprays help keep the disease from spreading.
Septoria Leaf Spot shows up as wet, raised, papery patches on the leaves, with tiny dark specks inside the margins. The lower, more mature leaves are affected first, and eventually the plant will lose foliage and expose the tomatoes to sun scald. Copper-based fungicides are effective at stopping the symptoms.
• Control the bugs. Any number of insects show up later in the season to feast on tomatoes. One of the most recognized is the hornworm: a large pale-green worm with a black "horn" growth on the rear end. Tobacco hornworms have a red horn, but will do just as much damage to your tomato crop.
By now the first generation of caterpillars will have dropped to the soil, pupated and emerged as sphinx or hummingbird moths to lay smooth, oval, light-green eggs on the upper and lower sides of leaves. The larvae blend in with the foliage and are hard to spot, but handpicking them is the best way to deal with these destructive eating machines. Go hunting after dark; hornworms feed mostly at night.
Parasitic braconid wasps (Cotesia congregatus) can also be used to attack and lay eggs on hornworm larvae, killing them. Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Bt) strain is sold as a spray you apply to the plant's leaves. The hornworm consumes the treated foliage and soon stops eating and dies. Bt is harmless to bees, lacewings, ladybugs and other beneficials, but will kill all caterpillars, so be sure to keep it from butterfly plants. Bt is sold under the trade names Dipel, Thuricide and Green Step.
Joe Lamp'l, host of "Growing a Greener World"on PBS, is a Master Gardener and author. For more information visit www.joegardener.com.

66 Things You Can Grow In Containers

Growing your own food is exciting, not only because you get to see things grow from nothing into ready-to-eat fruits and veggies, but you also don't have to worry about the pesticides they might contain, and you definitely cut down on the miles they -- and you -- have to travel.

As it turns out, with pretty minimal effort, anyone can be a gardener. My boyfriend and I are essentially first-timers this season and so far have the beginnings of strawberries peeking out, tomatoes are on their way, the basil's about ready for a big batch of pesto, and once the last frost hits, the peppers, kale, spinach, chard, and mesclun will be on their way, too. All on a tiiiny little terrace (with the help of a little DIY carpentry).

If you're up to the challenge -- and it really isn't much of one -- growing your own food can be so rewarding. And so much cheaper! Just be sure to choose the right planter or container, learn how to maintain it properly, and go find yourself some seeds (or starter plants)!

Here's a starter list of all the crazy things even urban gardeners, without space for a garden, can grow at home.

Tree Fruits - Including Apples

1. Apples can be grown in a container; you can also grow them on the balcony or other small space using a technique called espaliering.

2. Kumquats

3. Avocados (plenty of extra tips online if you search)

4. Blackberries

5. Blueberries (sometimes helpful videos are available online)

6. Pomegranate

7. Cherries

8. Figs

9. Pears

Citrus Fruits

Citrus trees in particular are said to be good for beginning gardeners and are easy to grow indoors, so don't let inexperience or lack of outdoor space stop you from enjoying fresh-picked, hyper-local fruit.

10. Dwarf oranges

11. Grapefruit

12. Tangerines

13. Meyer Lemons

14. Limes

Tropical Fruits

Tropical fruits can also be surprisingly easy to grow indoors, even in non-tropical climates. Such as...

15. Bananas (look for container gardening tips online)

16. Pineapple

17. Papaya

18.Gurvas (several varieties)

The Real Surprises

19. Hops -- yes, as in the “spice” ingredient in beer. Turns out they're easy to grow!

20. Aloe Vera

21. Strawberries

22. Tea (well, herbal tea)

23. Quinoa!

The Non-Surprises

24. Tomatoes

25. Summer Squash

26. Other Squashes, like Acorn and Pumpkin

27. Hot Peppers

28. Sweet Peppers

29. Cucumbers

Melons

30. Small Cantaloupe

31. Jenny Lind Melon (an heirloom cantaloupe)

32. Golden Midget Watermelon

Herbs

Just about any herb grows well indoors -- just be sure that if you're going to do any container-sharing, you do your research first about which herbs co-habitate well together. (Some will hog water, for example, and leave the others dried out.)

33. Basil

34. Oregano

35. Parsley

36. Rosemary

37. Chives

38. Catnip

39. Thyme

40. Sage

41. Parsley

Leafy Greens

42. Kale

43. Mesculun Greens

44. Spinach

45. Swiss Chard

46. Lettuces (plenty of options there, from micro-greens to head or loose-leaf)

47. Mustard greens

48. Collard greens

49. Arugula

Root Vegetables

50. Carrots

51. Beets

52. Potatoes

Other Healthy-sounding Stuff

53. Sprouts

54. More sprouts: mung bean and lentil sprouts

55. Wheatgrass

56. Kohlrabi

57. Turnips

58. Rutabagas

59. Celeriac

60. Parsnips

61. Jerusalem Artichoke

62. Sugar snap peas

63. Rhubarb (not ideal in a container, but it can work)

64. Mushrooms (again, more tips online if you look)

65. Pole Beans

66. Aaaand... asparagus, although some disagree that it does well in a container. Try it if you're ok with a risk!

Bonus

67. You can grow your own loofah, too, but you'd need a garden rather than a container for that.

Like this idea? Be sure to check out these 6 Crazy Concepts for Micro Gardens That Actually Work to get inspiration for designing your own garden in a small space. While you're at it, check in with this Organic Gardening feature for tons more info on making your garden grow.

by Planet Green

Bitter Melon (Bitter Gourd)

Nutrition Information And Facts

Bitter melon is one of the best vegetable-fruit that helps improve diabetic and toxemia conditions.

(Juicing for Health) The bitter melon (also known as bitter gourd or Karela (کریلا) in urdu) looks like a cucumber but with ugly gourd-like bumps all over it.

As the name implies, this vegetable is a melon that is bitter.  There are two varieties of this vegetable:  One grows to about 20 cm long, is oblong and pale green in color.  The other is the smaller variety, less than 10 cm long, oval and has a darker green color.

Both varieties have seeds that are white when unripe and that turn red when they are ripe.  The vegetable-fruit turn reddish-orange when ripe and becomes even more bitter.

Bitter gourd thrives in hot and humid climates, so are commonly found in Asian countries and South America.

Westerners may not be so used to bitter melons, so may find them more difficult to consume.  But if you can generally take bitter taste, you may be able to take this too.  Try it, at least for all its healthful virtues

Nutritional Benefits

Bitter gourds are very low in calories but dense with precious nutrients.  It is an excellent source of vitamins B1, B2, and B3, C, magnesium, folic acid, zinc, phosphorus, manganese, and has high dietary fiber.  It is rich in iron, contains twice the beta-carotene of broccoli, twice the calcium of spinach, and twice the potassium of a banana.

Bitter melon contains a unique phyto-constituent that has been confirmed to have a hypoglycemic effect called charantin.  There is also another insulin-like compound known as polypeptide P which have been suggested as insulin replacement in some diabetic patients.

Health Benefits

Few other fruits/vegetables offer medicinal properties for these ailments like bitter melon does.

Blood disorders: Bitter gourd juice is highly beneficial for treating blood disorders like blood boils and itching due to toxemia.  Mix 2 ounces of fresh bitter gourd juice with some lime juice.  Sip it slowly on an empty stomach daily for between four and six months and see improvement in your condition.

Cholera:  In early stages of cholera, take two teaspoonfuls juice of bitter gourd leaves, mix with two teaspoonfuls white onion juice and one teaspoonful lime juice.  Sip this concoction daily till you get well.

Diabetes mellitus:  Bitter melon contains a hypoglycemic compound 

(a plant insulin) that is highly beneficial in lowering sugar levels in blood and urine.  Bitter melon juice has been shown to significantly improve glucose tolerance without increasing blood insulin levels.

Energy:  Regular consumption of bitter gourd juice has been proven to improve energy and stamina level.  Even sleeping patterns have been shown to be improved/stabilized.

Eye problems:  The high beta-carotene and other properties in bitter gourd makes it one of the finest vegetable-fruit that help alleviate eye problems and improving eyesight.

Hangover:  Bitter melon juice may be beneficial in the treatment of a hangover for its alcohol intoxication properties.  It also help cleanse and repair and nourish liver problems due to alcohol consumption.

Immune booster:  This bitter juice can also help to build your immune system and increase your body's resistance against infection.

Piles:  Mix three teaspoonfuls of juice from bitter melon leaves with a glassful of buttermilk. Take this every morning on empty stomach for about a month and see an improvement to your condition.  To hasten the healing, use the paste of the roots of bitter melon plant and apply over the piles.

Psoriasis:  Regular consumption of this bitter juice has also been known to improve psoriasis condition and other fungal infections like ring-worm and athletes feet.

Respiratory disorders:  Take two ounces of fresh bitter melon juice and mix with a cup of honey diluted in water.  Drink daily to improve asthma, bronchitis and pharyngitis.

Toxemia:  Bitter gourd contains beneficial properties that cleanses the blood from toxins.  Sip two teaspoonfuls of the juice daily to help cleanse the liver.  Also helpful in ridding jaundice for the same reasons.

Consumption Tips

Choose unripe bitter melons that are firm, like how you would a cucumber.  Avoid those that have turned orange or have soft spots.  Ripe bitter melons can be excessively bitter.

Store bitter melons in the vegetable bin in the refrigerator which has the right temperature.  It should keep for three to four days.

Keeping bitter melons at room temperature or with other fruits and vegetables will hasten the melon to ripen and become more bitter, due to the emission of ethylene gas.

Clean your bitter melon under cold running water and brush with a soft vegetable brush.  To prepare, slice the melon length-wise and scoop out the seeds.  To lessen the bitter flavor, soak it in salt water for about half an hour before juicing/cooking.

The smaller variety is more bitter than the bigger one.  To help make bitter gourd juice more palatable, take it with honey, or add carrot or apple juice.  For diabetics, drink the juice with green apple juice.

Caution

Do not consume more than two ounces of bitter melon, or more than two melons a day.  Excessive consumption may cause mild abdominal pain or diarrhea.  Diabetics taking hypoglycemic drugs will need to alter the dosage of their drugs if they consume bitter melon on a regular basis.  Please consult your doctor.

Pregnant women should avoid taking too much bitter gourd or its juice as it may stimulate the uterus that may lead to preterm labor.

High-tech agriculture: The extraordinary profits of hydroponic vegetable farming

Through this technique, farmers can get between 450 and 550 tons of vegetables per acre, compared to the average yield of 15 tons per acre from traditional farming, according to Fareed Farmhouse project director Rana Zahid. PHOTO: FILE

Tahir Rana is a nuclear physicist who gave up a job in Canada to set up a vegetable farm in Faisalabad. He is part of a growing number of people worldwide who have been drawn in by the extraordinary profits in hydroponic vegetable farming, a new method that dramatically increases productivity and thus farmer incomes.

Hydroponic farms are unique in that they do not require any fertile soil. Indeed many of the world’s largest hydroponic farms are set up in the deserts of the Middle East or unfertile soils in other parts of the world. Seeds are placed in a growing medium – which can be either solid or liquid – in trays made from steel pipes. The advantage of this system is that nearly all of the nutrients poured into the growing medium are absorbed by the plant, making it exponentially more efficient and increasing productivity manifold.

Rana has set a up a small company just outside Faisalabad called Fareed Farmhouse, where he produces three varieties of tomato (cherry tomato, strawberry tomato, beef tomato), cucumber and capsicum. His production capacity is significantly above the norm.

“Through this technique, farmers can get between 450 and 550 tons of vegetables per acre, compared to the average yield of 15 tons per acre using traditional farming,” said Rana Zahid, the project director at Fareed Farmhouse.

Rana uses coconut waste imported from Sri Lanka as the solid medium in which he grows his plants. The vegetable plants are then irrigated through a water injection system. Fareed Farm uses reverse osmosis water purification systems to ensure the quality of the water.

Each plant requires up to two litres of water per day, which needs to be slightly acidic, with a pH of 5.8, according to Zahid.

Fareed Farmhouse produces relatively high-end vegetables that are consumed by higher income customers. His buyers include some of the large retail and wholesale chains in the country as well as hotels that have traditionally imported many of these vegetables from Europe.

Rana sells the tomatoes for about Rs225 per kilogram, compared to the cost of importing them from the Netherlands, which can run as high as Rs800 per kilogram. The seeds for the tomatoes at Fareed Farmhouse are imported from Canada and many of the other raw materials from China and Sri Lanka. Yet while the imported raw materials can be expensive, the method allows the company to save on other expenses.

“Our production method allows us to not use any kind of pesticides,” said Rana Arshad, a quality control officer at Fareed farmhouse.

The methods used by Fareed Farmhouse, however, do not come cheap. Hydroponic farming requires an investment of up to Rs1.5 million per acre, though it can yield net profits of up to Rs3 million per acre annually. Tahir Rana, however, is not content with just reaping the rewards of the existing techniques. He plans to spend up to Rs4 million in researching new methods and new variants of seeds. He is also planning on rapidly expanding his production base to up to 20 acres in the Faisalabad area.

Rana is a firm believer in the potential of hydroponic farming to transform Pakistani agriculture. “Every year, we import vegetables from India. If the government takes an interest in promoting these new technologies, we would not need to import from other countries. In fact, the country could earn a lot of foreign exchange by exporting to other countries.”

While Fareed Farmhouse is thus far focused on high-end vegetables, it appears that the company believes this method can be used to produce more mass market products as well.

The Express Tribune

A farm in your balcony

You can use any type of container to grow vegetables and herbs. Plastic pouches, old strainers, curd boxes, even unused bathtubs come in handy, writes Vandana Krishnamurthy

Have you ever felt the joy of harvesting tomatoes, brinjals or ladies finger from a container growing in your apartment balcony? It’s actually possible! All you need are a few old containers, some soil, manure and seeds or a sapling. Many vegetables and herbs can be grown in a very small space in your balcony or terrace. Even the smallest verandah, window sill or portico can boast a crop of vegetables or a garden of flowers in containers. 

Planter boxes, old plastic containers, hanging baskets and large flowerpots are just some of the containers that can be used. You can grow just about any vegetable in a container and also save money by growing your own vegetables. Cities that are fast expanding mean that there is very less area for green and open spaces. Gardens and natural areas have been sacrificed to build roads, commercial buildings and apartments. 

Green spaces not only provide us with clean air and recreation, and they also provide a habitat for a large variety of plants, birds and insects. Apart from the biodiversity they also protect the city from absorbing pollutants, preventing soil erosion, absorbing solar radiation, reducing noise pollution and maintaining the health of the urban ecosystem overall. However, the city and this concrete jungle are going nowhere. We need to be innovative to create our own green spaces within our existing system. 

Fun way to raise crops

Container gardening is a simple and fun way to grow edible crops in just about any situation. You can use any type of container. Strong plastic pouches, old strainers, curd boxes, two-litre soft-drink bottles, old airtight plastic boxes that have lost their lids, old trays, even unused bathtubs, the list can be endless. 

Get creative! Apart from these recycled containers, you can also have specific planters and terracotta pots for planting. Any kind of container that is attracting and appealing to you and has a drainage hole on its bottom can be an option. 

To start off, you need a container, plant, soil, manure and some water. Make sure there is enough room for all of these. Provide good drainage for the container by creating a hole at the bottom of the container. Do not stack up the soil around the holes, but place some large old clay pot pieces to allow for easy draining. Be sure to balance the size of your plant and container. Mix the soil with some manure and make it moist with a little water. 

Fill it into the container and place the seeds/saplings. Provide ample water to the plant after planting, without drowning it. Water every day initially and depending on your plants’ need, you can water accordingly. Some people say that container gardening is best for those who do not have the time to attend to their plants.

It will not take so much of time and effort. There are some creative containers called earth boxes and self-watering containers that provide water at all times. Container gardens offer the advantage of changing your garden with every season.

Almost any vegetable that will grow in a typical backyard garden will also do well as a container-grown plant. Vegetables that are ideally suited for growing in containers include tomatoes, capsicum, brinjal, green onions, beans, lettuce, gourds, pumpkin, radishes and parsley. Beans and cucumbers also do well in this type of garden, but they do require considerably more space because of their vining growth habit. Most herbs and leafy vegetables do well in small containers. Vegetables require a little more root space and therefore require larger containers.

The following are some plants that can be grown:

Tomatoes: Tomatoes need tons of sunlight to grow. It would be best to grow them in the sunniest part of your balcony. Bury the roots/seed deep into the soil because they are able to develop roots all along their stem. Autumn is the best time to sow tomatoes and you can harvest it 80-100 days from planting. Gather fruits that are just reaching the ripening stage. Do not leave it till a tiny crack appears at the stalk end, or a softening of skin indicates complete ripeness.

Beans: Green beans are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. They don’t take up a lot of space and require very little maintenance. Pole bean plants need some sort of support structure - like a pole. If you have limited time and garden space, bush beans are probably the way to go. Sowing season is between August and October. Such crops can be harvested in about 45-60 days. During the flowering season, be careful when it comes to watering and drainage of excessive moisture. Flowers generally stop falling after the pods have developed. Watering is advised on a very dry day, because the crop is susceptible to water logging.

Chilies: This is the most rewarding plant of the vegetable family. The best time to harvest chilies is before the monsoon, which can be harvested after about two months. Hot peppers are usually harvested at the red-ripe stage; but green chilies are also required for many south Indian recipes. Plastic or rubber gloves are helpful when picking or handling hot chilies.

Onions: Onions are one of the most popular vegetables for growing in home gardens. Onions can be planted from seed or from sets (partly grown onion bulbs). When the plant is fully grown, bend over each bunch of foliage to cut off the supply of sap from the leaves to the bulb. After a week or ten days the crop may be harvested.

These are just few of the many plants that can be grown in limited balcony spaces. You can grow your own mini pharmacy of medicinal herbs like amrutha balli (tinospora cordifolia), curry leaves, basale soppu (basella alba), garlic, ginger, mint, etc. 

Many people have adopted organic terrace gardening in Bangalore, a movement pioneered by Vishwanath. He began this initiative in 1992 by providing training to residents in their own locality and supplying the needed inputs like seeds, manure, plant protection materials, implements, containers, etc. 

There are many organisations in Bangalore involved in plants and gardening. For example, Institute of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine (IAIM) in Yelahanka, Bangalore has a large nursery with all kinds of medicinal plants that can be home grown.

A farm in your balcony

You can use any type of container to grow vegetables and herbs. Plastic pouches, old strainers, curd boxes, even unused bathtubs come in handy, writes Vandana Krishnamurthy

Have you ever felt the joy of harvesting tomatoes, brinjals or ladies finger from a container growing in your apartment balcony? It’s actually possible! All you need are a few old containers, some soil, manure and seeds or a sapling. Many vegetables and herbs can be grown in a very small space in your balcony or terrace. Even the smallest verandah, window sill or portico can boast a crop of vegetables or a garden of flowers in containers. 

Planter boxes, old plastic containers, hanging baskets and large flowerpots are just some of the containers that can be used. You can grow just about any vegetable in a container and also save money by growing your own vegetables. Cities that are fast expanding mean that there is very less area for green and open spaces. Gardens and natural areas have been sacrificed to build roads, commercial buildings and apartments. 

Green spaces not only provide us with clean air and recreation, and they also provide a habitat for a large variety of plants, birds and insects. Apart from the biodiversity they also protect the city from absorbing pollutants, preventing soil erosion, absorbing solar radiation, reducing noise pollution and maintaining the health of the urban ecosystem overall. However, the city and this concrete jungle are going nowhere. We need to be innovative to create our own green spaces within our existing system. 

Fun way to raise crops

Container gardening is a simple and fun way to grow edible crops in just about any situation. You can use any type of container. Strong plastic pouches, old strainers, curd boxes, two-litre soft-drink bottles, old airtight plastic boxes that have lost their lids, old trays, even unused bathtubs, the list can be endless. 

Get creative! Apart from these recycled containers, you can also have specific planters and terracotta pots for planting. Any kind of container that is attracting and appealing to you and has a drainage hole on its bottom can be an option. 

To start off, you need a container, plant, soil, manure and some water. Make sure there is enough room for all of these. Provide good drainage for the container by creating a hole at the bottom of the container. Do not stack up the soil around the holes, but place some large old clay pot pieces to allow for easy draining. Be sure to balance the size of your plant and container. Mix the soil with some manure and make it moist with a little water. 

Fill it into the container and place the seeds/saplings. Provide ample water to the plant after planting, without drowning it. Water every day initially and depending on your plants’ need, you can water accordingly. Some people say that container gardening is best for those who do not have the time to attend to their plants.

It will not take so much of time and effort. There are some creative containers called earth boxes and self-watering containers that provide water at all times. Container gardens offer the advantage of changing your garden with every season.

Almost any vegetable that will grow in a typical backyard garden will also do well as a container-grown plant. Vegetables that are ideally suited for growing in containers include tomatoes, capsicum, brinjal, green onions, beans, lettuce, gourds, pumpkin, radishes and parsley. Beans and cucumbers also do well in this type of garden, but they do require considerably more space because of their vining growth habit. Most herbs and leafy vegetables do well in small containers. Vegetables require a little more root space and therefore require larger containers.

The following are some plants that can be grown:

Tomatoes: Tomatoes need tons of sunlight to grow. It would be best to grow them in the sunniest part of your balcony. Bury the roots/seed deep into the soil because they are able to develop roots all along their stem. Autumn is the best time to sow tomatoes and you can harvest it 80-100 days from planting. Gather fruits that are just reaching the ripening stage. Do not leave it till a tiny crack appears at the stalk end, or a softening of skin indicates complete ripeness.

Beans: Green beans are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. They don’t take up a lot of space and require very little maintenance. Pole bean plants need some sort of support structure - like a pole. If you have limited time and garden space, bush beans are probably the way to go. Sowing season is between August and October. Such crops can be harvested in about 45-60 days. During the flowering season, be careful when it comes to watering and drainage of excessive moisture. Flowers generally stop falling after the pods have developed. Watering is advised on a very dry day, because the crop is susceptible to water logging.

Chilies: This is the most rewarding plant of the vegetable family. The best time to harvest chilies is before the monsoon, which can be harvested after about two months. Hot peppers are usually harvested at the red-ripe stage; but green chilies are also required for many south Indian recipes. Plastic or rubber gloves are helpful when picking or handling hot chilies.

Onions: Onions are one of the most popular vegetables for growing in home gardens. Onions can be planted from seed or from sets (partly grown onion bulbs). When the plant is fully grown, bend over each bunch of foliage to cut off the supply of sap from the leaves to the bulb. After a week or ten days the crop may be harvested.

These are just few of the many plants that can be grown in limited balcony spaces. You can grow your own mini pharmacy of medicinal herbs like amrutha balli (tinospora cordifolia), curry leaves, basale soppu (basella alba), garlic, ginger, mint, etc. 

Many people have adopted organic terrace gardening in Bangalore, a movement pioneered by Vishwanath. He began this initiative in 1992 by providing training to residents in their own locality and supplying the needed inputs like seeds, manure, plant protection materials, implements, containers, etc. 

There are many organisations in Bangalore involved in plants and gardening. For example, Institute of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine (IAIM) in Yelahanka, Bangalore has a large nursery with all kinds of medicinal plants that can be home grown.

Deccan Herald

Okra (Bhindi)

Advice to Okra (Bhindi) Growers

Faisalabad: Okra or ladyfinger (bhindi , بھنڈی ) is very popular vegetable among the farmers due to high returns which give it status of cash crop. This vegetable is very nutritious and even children cannot resist the temptation of eating it.

The department of agriculture of Punjab issues several advisory for okra growers to make the crop yield even better.

• The most popular variety of ladyfinger which can be cultivated successfully is "Subz Pari". This variety gives very good results. 
• The best time to start sowing of okra is from mid of February till end of March.
• This crop required hot and humid weather to grow properly. Fog and cloudy weather and temperature below 20 degree Celsius hinder the growth. 
• Okra can be cultivated in any soil type but fertile land with good drainage is most suitable.
• For better yeild it is recommended to use 10 to 12 kg of seeds per acre

  Tips on growing okra

  By Samuel Sanya  

  
  

  (New Vision Uganda) Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) is also known as lady’s fingers or gumbo and is highly valued for its edible green seed pods. 

  
  

  When planting, ensure that the plants are separated from each other by about 15 inches. Okra seeds are relatively large and easy to handle. They also germinate well if the soil is warm enough. 

  
  

  Plant the seeds about half an inch deep. Plant about three seeds at each spot. In most cases, all three germinate and when the plants are about six inches tall, thin them to only one plant every 18 inches. 

  
  

  Okra needs warm weather to grow well. This means that during the rainy season, you may not have much of a crop. Most varieties of okra will start yielding about 60 days after planting. 

  
  

  The flowers are large, pale yellow and fairly ornamental. Each flower blooms for only one day and eventually forms one okra pod. Pick the pods when they are approximately three inches in length. 

  
  

  Picking the pods while wet may darken the skin though the taste is not affected. Typically it grows quickly, so you need to harvest every two days or so. The plants can eventually grow quite tall (five feet or more), but will stop growing as soon as the temperature starts dropping down below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

   

Onion - II

Onion Farming Business

Harvested Onions in Farm

Onion farming is a good idea if you have unused land in your backyard. Perhaps, this crop does not attract the attention of many people yet it supports million lives specifically children who help in the planting process.

There are some places in the world where locals depend their living in onion farming.

For many years, onion farming became popular across Yemen. However, due to lack of interest of many farmers the industry declines. Fortunately, nowadays lots of people engage in backyard gardening and they find growing onions as their choice. There are two categories of onion such as the short day onions and the long day onions. These two onions differ on the growing period. Likewise, when buying for onion varieties that you will grow you can choose from bulb onions and the perennial onions.

How to Plant Onions?

Onions can be grown from seeds, sets and transplant. When you choose to grow onions from seeds you should plant the seeds ½ inches apart and 3/8 inch deep. The rows should be 15 inches apart. On the other hand, the bulb onions are perfect to grow from transplant. The planting process is merely the same with growing from seeds. In like manner, the bulb onions can be easily grown by planting sets. Planting sets can be can be grown closely together but needs to be thin out by getting the green onions and the others will grow into bulbs.

Maintaining onion Plants

Farming onion plants requires lot of water as they initially grow. However, as the plants mature, thy do not need much of water. Sometimes you can just depend on rainwater but make sure that the plants absorb the right amount every 5-7 days. Mulching can help reduce the weeds and at the same time maintain the soil moisture level. Keep in mind to weed out once the onions start to grow so that the weeds will not absorb the soil nutrients needed by the onions. However, you should be careful when weeding and ensure not to disturb the roots of the onions. In addition, you may not use fertilizer if you employ quality compost in the soil before planting the onions. Instead, you should use root builder like the natural mycorrhizal fungi. It helps the roots in absorbing water as well as soil nutrients by attaching to the roots. In this way, you can save the organic fertilizer for other crops.

Harvesting Onions

Bulb onions can be harvested within three months. When the plants start to yellow then it is the right time to harvest the bulb onions. Ripening process can be induced by breaking the tops of the onions. It is best to harvest the onions prior of producing flower stalks. On the other hand, you can only harvest the green onion as soon as it reaches 5 inches tall. The flavor depends on how taller they get. This means that if you want a strong flavor onion you should let it grow taller.

FAQ

Q. What is the best time for planting onion?

A. Usually onion seeds are planted in mid-october.

Q. What temperature is best suited for onion farming?

A. Temperature should be 15-25 degree celcius or 60-80 F. Onion needs uniform moisture throughout the growing season. More likely the furrow irrigation is used for onion planting.

Q. What are the various onion plant diseases?

A. Here are the common diseases that you need to aware of like botrytis leaf blight, purple blotch, pink root, smudge and several basal rots.

Cultivation of Bitter Gourd (Karela)

Bitter Gourd (Bitter Melon or Karela, کریلا) is a cucumber like nutritious vegetable. This vegetable if cultivate on time the farmers could get good monetary benefits.

• The agronomists advised to the farmers to start early cultivation (agiti kasht، اگیتی کاشت) of the bitter gourd from 15th of February to mid of April for better harvest.
• They advised to the farmers to choose "Faisalabad Long" variety of  bitter gourd to get some bumper crop in Pakistani Punjab. Other people can consult local agriculture extension.
• The farmers should choose good sprout ratio of seeds. 3.50Kg  to 3.75Kg per acre of seeds soaked with good herbicide.
•  The herbicide on seeds should not be exceed 2kg to 3kg per acre.
• The Silt Loom Soil (myra zameen, میرا مٹی ) with the pH less than 7 i.e. basic nature is very good for bitter gourd cultivation.
• The soil should also be with good water drainage qualities.

How to grow Sweet Peas

(Sweet Peas Org) Sweet Peas are actually very easy to grow. You can simply plant them in the soil where you intend them to grow in March or April in the UK (be guided by local weather conditions) and leave them to it. By July you should have flowers. However, to get the best from your seeds you should consider planting them in autumn (late September to early November) or winter (January to February). This will enable you to have stronger and earlier flowering plants.

A summary of the Sweet Pea year :

September/October

Choose your varieties carefully (see Favourite Sweet Peas). Whether you wish to grow varieties for exhibition or for decoration, it pays to select named varieties from the specialist seed merchants – several of whom advertise in the Society's publications. You will tend to get better flowers and you can select your own colour combinations.

In the Midlands and the South of the UK consider planting seeds now.

November/December

You can still plant seeds now but they might need a bit of heat to germinate. You are aiming for strong compact plants so bring them up 'hard.' Keep them in a coldframe (or a cold greenhouse if you do not have access to a coldframe). Don't coddle them and keep the lights open as much as possible. Close and lag if bad weather is forecast.

January/February

You can still plants seeds now. This tends to be the favoured time for growers in the north of the UK. Nip out top two leaves when the seedlings have developed four.

March/April

Time to plant out. Be guided by local weather conditions and not the calendar. However, if the ground is cold and/or very wet it is best to wait. The plants will soon catch up.

You can plant seeds straight in the ground where you want them to grow now.

May/June

Plants will start to flower. Keep the blooms cut – if they set seed flowering will be curtailed.

July/August

Water if the weather is dry but make sure you do this early on in the day to minimise bud drop and to prevent scorching. Feed with a weak solution of your favourite plant food (formulated for flowers) if your plants are starting to look weaker. For exhibition blooms feed preferably before they start throwing blooms with only three florets to a stem.

How to prepare the site:

Much has been written on this subject but the best advice is to be governed by your own soil conditions. Sweet Peas benefit from well cultivated soil and adding a little well-rotted manure or organic compost may be beneficial. Take care not to overdo it though. Heavy soil will benefit from autumn preparation whilst the lightest soils should be prepared for planting in late winter/early spring.

How to sow:

For best results use named varieties or cultivars (see Gallery) in good potting compost and do not overcrowd – plant 1 seed to a 3 inch (8cm) pot or 6 to 8 seeds to a 6 inch (15cm) pot. Place the pots in a cold frame or greenhouse and cover them with newspaper until the seedlings have germinated. If you are planting in January to February your seedlings may need a little gentle heat to germinate. Make sure you stop the heat as soon as germination has occurred, otherwise your plants will get leggy.

Problems with germination? Some varieties have hard coats and may be more difficult to germinate. You could try soaking the seed overnight before sowing (and only sow those that have swollen) or nick the seed’s hard coat by gently rubbing against some sandpaper, on the side away from the 'eye' or scar on the seed. However, most people find that this is not necessary and there is a belief that soaking causes undue stress and weakens the plants.

How to look after your seedlings:

Overwinter your seedlings in a cold frame or cold greenhouse, bringing them up as hard as possible. Take precautions against slugs, snails, mice and birds (and cats who may find them to be a tempting bed). Watch out for bad weather – when frosts are forecast, your seedlings will need some extra protection. Close the frame’s lights and add some lagging (eg newspaper, bubble wrap, sacking etc). If the weather is particularly cold or the frosts prolonged, leave the lagging on to allow the seedlings to thaw slowly. When the first four leaves have formed, nip out the top two leaves to encourage bushiness. Do not forget to keep your plants moist if the weather is dry.

How to plant out:

For plants you wish to grow using the cordon method plant out your seedlings 8 to15 inches (20 to 38cm) apart in rows in March or April (in the UK) in your previously prepared site (see How to prepare the site). Each plant will have its own cane to grow up.

If you want to grow your plants naturally (termed 'on the bush') set plants 8 to12 inches (20 to 30cm) apart and give them something to scramble up such as a fence with pea net, or a wigwam of canes with some string or raffia for the tendrils to catch on to. Do not forget protection against slugs, snails and birds if they are a problem to you.

Sweet Peas perform best in an open sunny site.

How to look after your plants after planting out:

Well hardened off plants should not require any further protection unless the site is particularly exposed. Let the plants get on with things themselves for about 4 to 6 weeks. If you are using the cordon method restrict the growth to the strongest shoots and tie in to the support. If you are growing your plants naturally, encourage the small plants to cling to the support by tying in at first and spreading out the shoots over the support. If your plants are particularly bushy you may have to remove some shoots to prevent overcrowding.

Make sure your plants do not suffer from lack of water but remember not to water during the hottest part of the day. Extra feeding probably will not be necessary if your soil was well prepared.

Enjoy the flowers which should start to appear from late May to early June. To prolong flowering ensure that the flowers do not set seed, take the flowers into the house and enjoy their scent.

How to grow using the cordon method:

This is the method favoured by exhibition growers and anyone wanting to grow top quality flowers. It requires more time with a commensurate improvement in blooms. You will find that you will have fewer flowers using this method than growing naturally but they will be of much better quality.

After planting out leave your plants for around 4 to 6 weeks to settle. After this time, depending on the local weather conditions, they will probably be at least 12 inches (30cm) tall. Restrict the growth to one shoot by cutting or nipping out the extra shoots and tie the remaining shoot loosely to its support. You might want to use metal rings to tie in your plants as these tend to be quickest overall but anything will do. Continue to nip out side shoots which form at every leaf axil, tying in the plant as necessary. You should also remove the twisty tendrils seen at the end of the pairs of leaves which form up the stem. It is rather like growing tomatoes on the cordon. Do not allow flowers to set seed. Most growers cut them as they open which means one stem per plant every day or every other day, depending on weather conditions. Many growers will also nip out the early blooms as they form to further strengthen their plants, doing so until the blooms start to form with four florets per stem or until June.

Growing on the cordon means that all the plant's energy is concentrated into producing better flowers and growth of the single branch. This means that your plants will soon reach the top of your canes. You will then need to 'layer' them. Do not confuse this with propagation – all this means is to drop your plants down to the bottom of the canes so that they can grow up again. You may need to do this more than once during the season. The easiest way to layer is to undo the ties and gently lie your plants horizontally along the rows. They will naturally turn upwards in a day or two and you can then tie them in to the nearest cane and continue as before. You may choose to tie train them up a cane further along the row straight away. Take care not to snap the plant as they can be very brittle. Choose a warm day and make any bends gradual.

Common Pests and Diseases

Mice are the greatest danger to the seed during the period of germination. Later on, watch out for birds, slugs and snails.

Aphids transmit mosaic virus. Plants start to grow poorly and have speckled leaves and flowers. Pull out infected plants to prevent the disease from spreading.

Bud drop – every Sweet Pea grower experiences this at some point in his or her growing career! In periods of cold weather the developing flowerbuds may turn yellow and fall off. Some varieties are more prone to this than others.

Leaf Scorch – leaves lose colour from the bottom upwards and dry off or 'scorch' but the plant continues to flower until the top leaves are affected.

Pollen beetles – Vast numbers of these small black insects can accumulate in the blooms, particularly on lighter coloured varieties. There is no chemical control available so the best advice is to place vases of affected flowers in a dark room with a light source at one end. The beetles will be attracted to the light and should abandon the flowers.