Showing posts with label Fruit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fruit. Show all posts

Monday, June 25, 2012

Strawberry Farm Start-up Guide



Starting a commercial strawberry farm takes interest, experience and capital. If you are planning to cultivate strawberries for profit, you must undertake intense preparation to get off to a good start.

Prepare yourself for this task by having your questions about strawberry farming answered reading our basic guide.

Strawberry Farm Startup Needs
Starting a commercial strawberry farm is not for everyone. It requires a special interest in strawberry farming and selling, years of experience in strawberry growing, and a lot of capital. You’d need some $1,000 to raise an acre of strawberries. You’d need to purchase or lease at least a few acres of land and get the equipment to cultivate a crop. You’d need a tractor, spreader, bedder, pickup truck, irrigation system, mowers, and sprayers. These equipments cost a lot if you buy them, that’s why some farmers opt to rent instead. More importantly, you have to have the experience in growing strawberries, perhaps by learning it from childhood if your family already owns an orchard or by working for one strawberry farm for a long time. Experience and knowledge are needed to grow a sensitive crop as a strawberry.

Strawberry Cultivation Basics
Strawberry planting and harvesting often can take up to a year. You’d need to go through several stages of planning, planting, cultivating and harvesting. To start a farm, you’d need to prepare your soil for strawberry growing. Check on the kind of soil you have by performing a soil test. Strawberries prefer loam soil, particularly sandy loam soil. Knowing your soil type and composition will help you decide how to prepare it for cultivation. You might need to broadcast lime in order to adjust its pH to the preferred pH strength of 6 by strawberries. Then you need to apply fertilizer and fumigate the soil to control weed growth. You’ll need to spray fungicides and insecticides later when the strawberries have grown. A major task in strawberry farming is the installation of irrigation and sprinkler system for the water needs of the plant. All these processes could take almost a year. But there are also varieties that ripen in shorter times. The Chandler variety is the most commonly preferred variety because of its adaptability to the climate.

Because of the complexity needed in growing a crop like strawberry, intense preparation is necessary. In order to successfully start a farm, someone planning to do so should come up with a business plan to contain all the necessary aspects of the business. The business plan should include information on what kind of strawberry farming system will be used, the orchard layout, the farming timetable, marketing strategy and the financial analysis for the farm.

The financial aspect should include the variable costs for seeds, fertilizer, pesticide, labor, and overhead; and the fixed costs such as money spent for acquiring land, and paying depreciation, taxes and insurance.

Monday, May 28, 2012

66 Things You Can Grow In Containers


Growing your own food is exciting, not only because you get to see things grow from nothing into ready-to-eat fruits and veggies, but you also don't have to worry about the pesticides they might contain, and you definitely cut down on the miles they -- and you -- have to travel.

As it turns out, with pretty minimal effort, anyone can be a gardener. My boyfriend and I are essentially first-timers this season and so far have the beginnings of strawberries peeking out, tomatoes are on their way, the basil's about ready for a big batch of pesto, and once the last frost hits, the peppers, kale, spinach, chard, and mesclun will be on their way, too. All on a tiiiny little terrace (with the help of a little DIY carpentry).

If you're up to the challenge -- and it really isn't much of one -- growing your own food can be so rewarding. And so much cheaper! Just be sure to choose the right planter or container, learn how to maintain it properly, and go find yourself some seeds (or starter plants)!

Here's a starter list of all the crazy things even urban gardeners, without space for a garden, can grow at home.

Tree Fruits - Including Apples


1. Apples can be grown in a container; you can also grow them on the balcony or other small space using a technique called espaliering.
2. Kumquats
3. Avocados (plenty of extra tips online if you search)
4. Blackberries
5. Blueberries (sometimes helpful videos are available online)
6. Pomegranate
7. Cherries
8. Figs
9. Pears

Citrus Fruits


Citrus trees in particular are said to be good for beginning gardeners and are easy to grow indoors, so don't let inexperience or lack of outdoor space stop you from enjoying fresh-picked, hyper-local fruit.
10. Dwarf oranges
11. Grapefruit
12. Tangerines
13. Meyer Lemons
14. Limes

Tropical Fruits


Tropical fruits can also be surprisingly easy to grow indoors, even in non-tropical climates. Such as...

15. Bananas (look for container gardening tips online)
16. Pineapple
17. Papaya
18.Gurvas (several varieties)

The Real Surprises


19. Hops -- yes, as in the “spice” ingredient in beer. Turns out they're easy to grow!
20. Aloe Vera
21. Strawberries
22. Tea (well, herbal tea)
23. Quinoa!

The Non-Surprises


24. Tomatoes
25. Summer Squash
26. Other Squashes, like Acorn and Pumpkin
27. Hot Peppers
28. Sweet Peppers
29. Cucumbers

Melons


30. Small Cantaloupe
31. Jenny Lind Melon (an heirloom cantaloupe)
32. Golden Midget Watermelon

Herbs


Just about any herb grows well indoors -- just be sure that if you're going to do any container-sharing, you do your research first about which herbs co-habitate well together. (Some will hog water, for example, and leave the others dried out.)

33. Basil
34. Oregano
35. Parsley
36. Rosemary
37. Chives
38. Catnip
39. Thyme
40. Sage
41. Parsley

Leafy Greens


42. Kale
43. Mesculun Greens
44. Spinach
45. Swiss Chard
46. Lettuces (plenty of options there, from micro-greens to head or loose-leaf)
47. Mustard greens
48. Collard greens
49. Arugula

Root Vegetables


50. Carrots
51. Beets
52. Potatoes

Other Healthy-sounding Stuff


53. Sprouts
54. More sprouts: mung bean and lentil sprouts
55. Wheatgrass
56. Kohlrabi
57. Turnips
58. Rutabagas
59. Celeriac
60. Parsnips
61. Jerusalem Artichoke
62. Sugar snap peas
63. Rhubarb (not ideal in a container, but it can work)
64. Mushrooms (again, more tips online if you look)
65. Pole Beans
66. Aaaand... asparagus, although some disagree that it does well in a container. Try it if you're ok with a risk!

Bonus


67. You can grow your own loofah, too, but you'd need a garden rather than a container for that.

Like this idea? Be sure to check out these 6 Crazy Concepts for Micro Gardens That Actually Work to get inspiration for designing your own garden in a small space. While you're at it, check in with this Organic Gardening feature for tons more info on making your garden grow.

by Planet Green

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Coconut Water Benefits – What Can Coconut Water Do For Me?


Coconut water is one of the healthiest drinks around. People adore the natural flavor and its all-natural appeal. While new to America, its benefits are no surprise to tropical islanders and Latin Americans that have been drinking it for centuries. Coconut water products range from pure coconut water to flavored varieties to those with real pulp. Aside from its natural, sweet taste, this thirst-quenching drink is also popular thanks to all of the coconut water health benefits that we’ll discuss here.
The fact that coconut water has many health benefits is not at all surprising since coconuts themselves also do wonders for our bodes. So, what are the health benefits of coconut water? First, let’s talk about its nutritional value. After understanding its nutritional properties, you’ll easily understand the various health benefits.

Coconut Water Benefits – Nutrition – Electrolytes

Coconut water has the five electrolytes that are already in our bodies. This includes potassium, magnesium, phosphorous, sodium and calcium. All of these electrolytes help in certain functions of our body. Also, being a natural health drink, coconut water does not contain any preservatives, fats or cholesterol. This makes it a good drink for everybody regardless of your conditions.
For instance, coconut water contains a considerable amount of potassium – about 295mg – far more than any other sports drinks and energy drinks, which contain only about 117mg of potassium.

Electrolyte Drinks (Like Coconut Water) Help Lower Blood Pressure

One thing you may not know is that hypertension, or high blood pressure, is oftentimes caused by an electrolyte imbalance. Many hypertensive patients only worry about sodium, but all of the electrolytes take part in the “blocking” of ducts in our veins. Fortunately, coconut water has all five electrolytes, unlike your favorite sports drink.

Coconut Water Benefits – Nutrition – Low Sugar Content


By now, you should certainly know that processed sugar, especially high fructose corn syrup and fructose in general, are responsible for the massive growth in obesity rates happening in the Western World.
While coconut water does have some sugar content, it is nowhere nearly as potent or dangerous as that of sodas, sports drinks, or even processed juices like apple juice that contain no fiber. According to the chief of United nation’s Food and Agriculture, coconut water contains about 5mg of Natural Sugars whereas all the other drinks contain about 10-25mg of refined sugars.
These refined sugars wreak havoc on your body due to their simple nature, cause your blood sugar levels to spike, thus causing an insulin spike, and thus finally causing that horrific process known as fat storage. Stop drinking sugar-infested drinks that rot your teeth and cardiovascular system and start drinking some natural coconut water each morning.

Coconut Water Benefits – So Healthy it Can Be Used Intravenously

In tropical countries, coconut water has long been used as a remedy for all types of illness. In an emergency, it can even be used as an intravenous treatment for immediate hydration![2]

Coconut Water Benefits – Healthy Skin

We’re always concerned with the way we look – and our skin is one of our most shining examples of having vibrant health. There’s good news here – Coconut water also has an effect on the skin. Here are some benefits of coconut water for the skin:
  • Coconut water adds moisture to our skin. Many lotions and facial moisturizers have this in their formulas – and those are great – but they also only work on the outside. Drinking coconut water hydrates your skin from the inside. Aside from this, coconut water also helps remove excessive oil in the skin and in the scalp. Again, this is why so many conditioners and shampoos make use of coconut water.
  • Coconut water can cure acne scars. This is possible thanks to coconut water’s cleansing and toning effects on the skin. Unlike the above bullet point, we’re talking about topical treatment now. You can apply coconut water on your face everyday then see how it goes.
Coconut Water Health Benefits – Weight Loss / Fat Loss



I’m going to put it straight to you here. Coconut water does contain sugar, and too much sugar promotes obesity, especially if eaten at the wrong times. However, coconut is far healthier than the alternative sport drinks, sodas, and even commercial fruit juices and juice boxes.
First off, coconut water contains fiber, which slows the absorption of the sugars. This is critical, since other sugary drinks and even fruit juices do not contain fiber, and those fast-digesting sugars lead to fast fat-storage.
Second, there is simply less total sugar in coconut water than there are in the other drinks mentioned above, so if you substitute it for your daily sports drink, you will be taking infar blood-sugar-spiking sugars.
  • Coconut water contains a high amount of water along with its electrolytes. As we all know, water keeps our bodies hydrated. As a result, the metabolism rate in our bodies remains high. Due to this fact, water is a big help in maintaining one’s health. This is also the same with coconut water.
  • Coconut water has a good effect on thyroid function. There are people that can not burn fat because of thyroid issues; drinking coconut water can be good for them.
  • Coconut water does contain many calories compared to the other commercial drinks in the market.

Coconut Water Benefits – Hangover Prevention and Remedy


Another controversial use of coconut water is for hangovers. You might find this use very weird. However, people say that coconut water is actually very effective in preventing or curing hangovers. When you drink too much, chances would be you’ll urinate frequently. As a result, you will get dehydrated and deplete your electrolyte stores in the process. There are two of the main causes of hangovers. Once you drink coconut water, it will rehydrate your body thanks to the water and replenish electrolytes more than all commercial sports drinks.
Other coconut water benefits include:
  • Coconut water cures or prevents kidney or bladder stones. Some people say that when you drink coconut water on a daily basis, the best results are achieved.
  • Coconut water has anti-viral, anti-fungal and antibacterial properties.
  • The pH of coconut water is isotonic with our blood. Because of this, coconut water can be used as a plasma substitute in extreme emergencies.
  • Coconut water contains lauric acid; a substance that can be found in baby’s milk. This is why it can also be used as a substitute to processed baby milk.
  • Infants are given coconut water to get rid of their intestinal worms. This is as effective as the anthelmintic medicines in the market. But since it is natural, it is actually much safer.
  • Cholera patients are also recommended to drink a glass or two of this natural drink; it may be helpful for them since coconut water contains albumen.
  • Coconut water is a great and natural way to prevent acid reflux.
  • It also aids in digestion.
  • One of the benefits of coconut water is it also improves blood circulation.
  • It also boosts your immune system.
So there you have it, the benefits of drinking coconut water. From blood pressure to hangovers to skin health – this delicious stuff has it all!
[1] http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15892382
Original Post Here

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Growing Papaya


Papaya is a luscious fruit that has been taken for granted. The total crop area in the Philippines planted to papaya amounts to only 8,720 hectares or 0.1 percent of our agricultural land. Yet no one can deny its tastiness as a dessert or as an indispensable vegetables dish of various recipes. Papaya fruits are good sources of Vitamin A, B and C. It is a familiar meat tenderizer because for clearing fruit juices, on fermenting liquors, pre-shrinking the quality of wool and as soap for washing clothes. Papaya possesses medicinal values.

Papaya can be easily grown in home yard gardens. It can also be a profitable enterprise. Under ordinary farm condition, production cost amounts to only P2,700 per hectare on the first year and P1,500 per hectare on the second year. The net profit on the first year may be less than P400 per hectare; but in the second year the returns can reach as high as P4,000 per hectare. The productive life of a papaya plant is about 3-1/2 years. This means that after establishing the plantation, income will flow with little effort provided you have a ready market.

VARIETIES

There are several cultivars you can choose from whether for backyard or commercial planting:
  1. "Cavite Special ” is a popular semi-dwarf type that blooms 6 to 8 months after planting. The fruit weighs from 3 to 5 kilos each and mainly eaten fresh.
  2. “Sunrise Solo” is a new improved high quality selection with reddish orange flesh, each fruit weighing half a kilo.
  3. “Waimanalo” is high quality variety with orange yellow flesh, each fruit weighing from one-half to one kilo.
  4. “Sinta” is the first Philippine-bred hybrid papaya, semi-dwarf, profile, sweet and flesh and weighs 1.2-2.0 kg./fruit.

LAND PREPARATION AND PLANTING

Land preparation for papaya orchard is similar to other upland crops. First clear the fields; then plow and harrow alternately about 2 to 3 times to kill weeds and provide good internal drainage. The distance of planting papaya ranges from 2 to 3 meters depending on the variety.

Papaya plants are usually planted by direct seedling in the field. Place 5 or more seeds in each hole; then cover with ¼ inch of soil. When fresh seeds are used, seeds will germinate in 10 to 14 days after planting. Seed germination is better and faster if the gelatinous envelope (sarcotestae) surrounding the seed is removed by means of the fingers. In some cases, seedlings are started in the nursery by sowing seeds in seed plots or individual containers such as in cans or plastic bags. Sow 3 to 4 seeds per container. Use sterilized soil to avoid nematode infestation and damping-off. Seedlings in the nursery should be grown under full sunlight to produce vigorous and hardy seedlings. Care should be taken not to disturb the root system. Constant watering is essential until plants are well-established. Seedlings are transplanted when there are 3 to 4 leaves.

THINNING

Thin papaya seedlings in the field 4 to 6 weeks after emergence. Leave only 3 of the strongest seedlings in each hole. Save plants that are spaced far enough from one another to allow minimum competition for sunlight and nutrients.

The second and final thinning in the field should be done as soon as flowers appear. This is usually 4 to 6 months after seed germination. At this stage, leave one tree seedling per planting hole. In plantation where female trees are grown, some pollinating trees of either male or hermaphrodite forms should be preserved during the thinning process. Allow one male plant to grow for every 15 to 20 female trees for pollination purposes.


CARE OF PAPAYA PLANTATION

Establishment of Windbreaks

Windbreaks are necessary in areas where strong winds prevail. Local materials used as windbreaks are ipil-ipil and madre de cacao. The distance between windbreaks varies with location. Where winds blow horizontally across the plantation, a common rule of thumb is to space windbreaks at a distance of 20-30 times the height of windbreak trees. Where winds come in different directions and angles, it is necessary to have windbreaks half as close.

In general, a good windbreak should be permeable, allowing some air to pass through.

Fertilization

Factors such as soil types, rainfall, locations, cultural practices, and age of plant influence fertilization practices. Start fertilizing when seeds are planted or when seedlings are transplanted in the field. Mix a handful (5-10gms.) of complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with the soil at the bottom of the hole before planting. As papaya seedlings grow larger, more fertilizer is applied.

Guide for papaya fertilization in the Philippines:

  • Apply 60 grams of ammonium sulfate as soon as plants are well-established and show new growth.
  • Apply the same amount at intervals of six weeks until plants are one year old.
  • Thereafter, apply 225 grams of ammonium sulfate per plant every three months.
  • Apply 450 grams superphosphate per plant at the start of rainy season every year.
  • In potassium-deficient soils, complete fertilizer with ratios 2:1:2 or 2:1:3 is recommended.

Weed Control

Weeds can be controlled by mechanical and chemical means. Hand-weed when papaya plants are less than 2- ½ meter high. Always keep one meter area around the trunk free from weeds.

In large commercial papaya plantation, weed control is done by using herbicides. Spray pre-emergence herbicide to hinder weed control for six months without much damage to plants. Spray post-emergence herbicides such as Paraquat of Gramoxone plus a surfactant, at intervals between sprays 5-6 weeks. Since papaya seedlings are very sensitive to chemical sprays, remove weeds close to the seedlings manually.

Inter-cropping

Papaya can be grown as intercrop with coconuts, coffee, pineapple or assorted vegetables. Inter-cropping with papaya increases total farm income and reduces weeding expenses. It is important to provide fertilizer requirement of the intercrop.

Harvesting

Harvesting is a simple operation when papaya trees are short and the fruit can be reached by hands. The first harvesting starts on the 7th to 8th month after planting. Pick all fruits showing a tinge of yellow at apical end.
Place harvested fruits in picking bags, galvanized containers or pails. Allow fruits to mature more fully to develop better flavor. However, this shortens shelf life and make them more susceptible to fruit fly infestation.
When papaya trees grow older, harvesting is done with the use of ladder. It is a tedious, time-consuming and costly method of harvesting. Farmers in Cavite use a long pole to strike the apical end of the papaya fruit to detach it from the tree while the fruit is caught by hand.
The papaya plant will keep on fruiting for many years but production declines rapidly as it grows older. Old trees grow slower and produce lesser fruits. The productive life span of papaya plantations end after 3-1/2 years. The yield of well-managed papaya plantation is 35 to 40 tons of fruits per hectare which is roughly 4 times the average yield (national) of 10 tons per hectare per year.

COMMON DISEASE AND PESTS OF PAPAYA AND THEIR CONTROL

Diseases

1. Phytophtora blight – caused by Phytophtora palmivora. Common symptoms are found on stems and fruits. Small, water-soaked, discolored spots may occur anywhere on the stem, around the fruit or leaf scars, especially during fruit production. These infected areas enlarge and often completely encircle stems of young trees. Green fruits are resistant to infection but can be invaded through the wound or through the peduncle from the stem cankers. Infected mature fruits that hand on the tree shrivel as disease progresses, turn dark brown, become mummified and fall to the ground. Mummified fruits become reservoir for fungus and source of infection.
Control – remove rotting fruits from the tree as these serve as reservoir of spores from fungal mass which is carried by rain or wind to healthy parts of plants. These spores may infect non-injured leaf tissue, stems or fruit. Good drainage conditions reduce infection and use of protectant spray such as copper sulfate or Dithane M-45 fungicides limit extent of injury.
2. Anthracnose – Affects both plants in the field and the fruits at harvested. First symptom is usually a small, round, water-soaked area on ripening portion of the fruit. As fruit ripens, these spots enlarge rapidly, forming circular, slightly sunken lesions; these enlarge up to 2 inches in diameter as fruit matures. Fungus frequently produces large, light orange or pink masses of spores in the center of the lesions. Sometimes spores are produced in concentric rings similar to a bull’s eye. In addition to producing this surface damage, the fungus also advances into the fruit.
Occasionally, green portions of the papaya become affected with anthracnose. Disease first appears as a small, water-soaked lesion. Soon after fungus penetrates the fruit, latex comes out in sticky mound of horns. These lesions enlarge to ½ inch in diameter as fruit remains green and eventually plant dies. Infected petioles may act as source of inoculum for infection of fruit.
Control – Control of this disease can be achieved only by means of a thorough spray program. In rainy areas with high temperatures, spray Dithane M-45 at 7 to 10 days intervals. Copper-based fungicides also provide good control.
3. Papaya mosaic – Initially, leaves develop rugged appearance. Undersides of leaves show thin, irregular, dark-green lines etching the borders of cleared area along veins. Younger leaves of crown are generally stunted and severely chlorotic with veins banding; transparent oily areas are scattered over leaf or along leaf veins. In mature leaves, chlorotic patters is light color between veins accompanied by numerous small rinds ranging from transparent yellow to tan yellow. In several affected areas, defoliation progresses upward until only a small tuft of leaves remains at the crown. Stems of infected plants show pinpoint-sized, water-soaked spots may develop into linear or concentric ring patterns, w/c become larger and more intense in color. This is generally transmitted by green peach aphid, Myzuz persicae.
Control – The only satisfactory way of controlling mosaic is by destroying source of the virus. A strick roguing program should also be followed:
  • Spray all infected trees with insecticide to kill aphid carriers.
  • Cut all infected trees and remove them from growing trees and other cucurbit plants.
  • Avoid nearby cultivars of cucurbit plants.
  • Control aphids with pesticides since they are disease-carriers.

Insect Pests:

1. Mites – They colonized on different parts of plants and feed on plant, causing premature leaf drop, reduce tree vigor and produce external blemishes on fruit. They puncture plant tissues with their needle-like mouthparts and feed on tissue juices. Some mutiply rapidly throughout the year and cause widespread damage in a very short time.
Control – Control mites by sulfur dustings. Spray Malathion at rates recommended by manufacturers.
2. Fruit fly – These infest papaya when fruits are allowed to ripen on the tree beyond recommended picking stage. Fruits harvested in the mature green stage are not infested due to the milky substance they exude when fruit is punctured.
Control – Sanitation is important. Destroy all dropped and pre-mature ripe fruits and suspected of being infested to prevent larvae from developing into adults flies.

MEDICINAL VALUES OF PAPAYA

Bruised papaya leaves are used as poultice in treating rheumatism. In nervous pains, leaves can be dipped in hot water or warmed over a fire and applied. As purgative, one tablespoon of the fresh fruit juice mixed with honey and 3 to 4 tbsp. of boiling water is taken one draught by an adult; two hours later, it is followed by a dose of castor oil. This treatment is repeated for 2 days, if necessary, for children aged 7 to 10 years old. The children under 3 years, half the dose is given.
source: www.da.gov.ph

Pomegranate - Punica granatum Cultivation and Farming

Soils and Climate

Soil - Pomegranates are fairly drought tolerant and can be grown on either calcareous or acid soils. Climate - Grow best in dry climates with mild winters. Chilling requirement - Unclear; can be grown in tropical climates without chilling. Cold hardiness - Wood tolerates temperatures down to -11°C.

The pomegranate thrives on calcareous, alkaline soil and on deep, acidic loam and a wide range of soils in between these extremes

Propagation

Pomegranate seeds germinate readily even when merely thrown onto the surface of loose soil and the seedlings spring up with vigor. However, to avoid seedling variation, selected cultivars are usually reproduced by means of hardwood cuttings 25-50 cm long. Treatment. indole-butyric acid and planting at a moisture level of 15.95% greatly enhances root development and survival. The cuttings are set in beds with 1 or 2 buds above the soil for 1 year, and then transplanted to the field. Grafting has never been successful but branches may be air-layered and suckers from a parent plant can be taken up and transplanted.

Pollination

The pomegranate is both self-pollinated and cross-pollinated by insects. There is very little wind dispersal of pollen. Self-pollination of bagged flowers has resulted in 45% fruit set. Cross-pollination has increased yield to 68%. In hermaphrodite flowers, 6 to 20% of the pollen may be infertile; in male, 14 to 28%. The size and fertility of the pollen vary with the cultivar and season

Cultivar

Types with relatively soft seeds are often classed as "seedless". Among the best are 'Bedana' and 'Kandhari'. 'Bedana' is medium to large, with brownish or whitish rind, pulp pinkish-white, sweet, seeds soft. 'Kandhari' is large, deep-red, with deep-pink or blood-red, subacid pulp and hard seeds. Others include:

'Alandi' ('Vadki')–medium-sized, with fleshy red or pink, subacid pulp, very hard seeds.

'Dholka'–large, yellow-red, with patches of dark-pink and purple at base, or all-over greenish-white; thick rind, fleshy, purplish-white or white, sweet, pulp; hard seeds. The plant is evergreen, non-suckering, desirable for commercial purposes

'Kabul'–large, with dark-red and pale-yellow rind; fleshy, dark-red, sweet, slightly bitter pulp.
'Muscat Red'–small to medium, with thin or fairly thick rind, fleshy, juicy, medium-sweet pulp, soft or medium-hard seeds. The plant is a moderately prolific bearer.

'Paper Shell'–round, medium to large, pale-yellow blushed with pink; with very thin rind, fleshy, reddish or pink, sweet, very juicy pulp and soft seeds. Bears heavily.

'Poona'–large, with dark-red, gray or grayish-green rind, sometimes spotted, and orange-red or pink-and-red pulp.

'Spanish Ruby'–round, small to medium or large; bright-red, with thin rind, fleshy, rose-colored, sweet, aromatic pulp, and small to medium, fairly soft seeds. Considered medium in quality.

'Vellodu'–medium to large, with medium-thick rind, fleshy, juicy pulp and medium-hard seeds.
'Muscat White'–large, creamy-white tinged with pink; thin rind; fleshy, cream-colored, sweet pulp; seeds medium-hard. Bears well. Desirable for commercial planting in South Africa

Culture

Rooted cuttings or seedlings are set out in pre-fertilized pits (60 cm) deep and wide and are spaced 3.5-5.5 m apart, depending on the fertility of the soil. Initially, the plants are cut back to 60-75 cm in height and after they branch out the lower branches are pruned to provide a clear main stem. Inasmuch as fruits are borne only at the tips of new growth, it is recommended that, for the first 3 years, the branches be judiciously shortened annually to encourage the maximum number of new shoots on all sides, prevent straggly development, and achieve a strong, well-framed plant. After the 3rd year, only suckers and dead branches are removed. For good fruit production, the plant must be irrigated.

Pests and Diseases

Pomegranate butterfly, Virachola isocrates, lays eggs on flower-buds and the calyx of developing fruits; in a few days the caterpillars enter the fruit by way of the calyx. These fruit borers may cause loss of an entire crop unless the flowers are sprayed 2 times 30 days apart. A stem borer sometimes makes holes right through the branches. Twig dieback may be caused by either Pleuroplaconema or Ceuthospora Phyllosticta. Discoloration of fruits and seeds results from infestation by Aspergillus castaneus. The fruits may be sometimes disfigured by Sphaceloma punicae.

Dry rot from Phomopsis sp. or Zythia versoniana may destroy as much as 80% of the crop unless these organisms are controlled by appropriate spraying measures. Excessive rain during the ripening season may induce soft rot.

Minor problems are leaf and fruit spot caused by Cercospora, Gloeosporium and Pestalotia sp.; also foliar damage by whitefly, thrips, mealybugs and scale insects; and defoliation by Euproctis spp. and Archyophora dentula. Termites may infest the trunk.

Training Young Trees

Trees may be trained to a bush, single- or multiple-trunked tree. The bush form is satisfactory for backyards or hedgerows, but is undesirable for good commercial production.

Trees form the nursery are planted bare root in winter or early spring. The natural growth habit of the pomegranate is to produce many suckers from the base of the tree. If a single truck tree is desired, only one vigorous sucker or the trunk of the original nursery tree should be selected and branches grown from it. Basal suckers should be removed periodically to promote growth form the main trunk of the newly planted tree. If the orchard trees are to be developed into a multiple-trunk system, five or six vigorous suckers should be selected around the base of the young tree and allowed to grow.

Selection of the five or six suckers to be developed into permanent trunks may take two or three or more years until good trunks are correctly positioned to form a sturdy and symmetrical tree. All other suckers should be removed in summer and during dormant pruning.

Many growers prefer the multi-trunk system. In case of frost injury, usually only one or two trunks are injured, leaving the others to continue bearing. New trunks can be trained from suckers and full production restored to the tree in 2 or 3 years. Single-trunked trees may be completely killed except for suckers coming form the ground. Trees trained to a multiple truck require less frequent care in pruning during the first few years and come into bearing sooner than trees having only one truck.

Some pruning and tying with ropes for support may be needed for the first 3 or 4 years or until trunks are large and rigid enough to support the developing top.

Pruning

Pomegranate trees require a small amount of pruning each winter to maintain shape and good bearing surface. Even mature trees grow vigorously, sending up a large number of shoots and basal suckers that require removal each year.

The short spurs on 2- or 3-year-old wood growing mostly on the outer edge of the tree produce flowers. These spurs develop on slow growing, mature wood that bears fruit for several years, but as the tree increases in size the wood loses its fruiting habit. Light, annual pruning encourages growth of new fruit spurs and heavy pruning reduces yields. Care should therefore be taken to leave adequate fruit-bearing wood on the tree, while removing crossing over or interfering branches. In addition, some thinning out of crowded bearing areas helps produce larger fruit having fewer wind scars.

Should below-freezing temperatures occur in early winter before trees are fully dormant, or in early spring when trees are beginning to leaf out, severe damage can be done to tree trunks. Occasionally, entire trunks are girdled and killed by frost. Remove weak or dead limbs during the next growing season, and permit a vigorous sucker to develop from ground level to replace it.

Fertilization

Mature pomegranate trees require from 1-2kg of actual nitrogen per tree per year. This may be applied in one application in fall or winter. On light soils a split application may be desirable, one-half of the fertilizer being applied in late winter and the remainder in spring. Excessive or late applications of nitrogen may delay fruit maturity and color. Some evidence indicates that excessive nitrogen applications cause increased vegetative growth and reduce fruit production.

There is not evidence to show that phosphorous (P) or potassium (K) will improve growth or fruit quality when used to fertilize pomegranate orchards. Occasionally, zinc deficiency is evident in trees. This is corrected by applying zinc sprays during the dormant season or to the foliage in spring and early summer.

Irrigation

The pomegranate can withstand long periods of drought. Although not much fruit is produced under drought conditions, trees will survive for years; then, if properly irrigated, they grow vigorously and produce good crops.

Trees will thrive and produce an abundance of fruit under high summer rainfall conditions but the fruit tends to be soft and has poor shipping and storage quality.

To produce large crops of good-quality fruit, pomegranates require about the same amount of water and frequency of application as citrus. Adequate soil moisture must be maintained throughout the growing season, particularly as harvest approaches in late summer and early fall, when it helps reduce the number of split fruit.

Most orchards are irrigated under the furrow system, but sprinkler and drip irrigation systems are satisfactory if properly designed. Orchards thrive under noncultivation and semi-noncultivation systems. Weed control is difficult because at present no pre-emergence herbicides are registered for use in pomegranate orchards.

Harvesting and Yield

The fruits ripen 6 to 7 months after flowering. The fruit cannot be ripened off the tree even with ethylene treatment. Growers generally consider the fruit ready for harvest if it makes a metallic sound when tapped. The fruit must be picked before over maturity when it tends to crack open if rained upon or under certain conditions of atmospheric humidity, dehydration by winds, or insufficient irrigation. Of course, one might assume that ultimate splitting is the natural means of seed release and dispersal.

The fruits should not be pulled off but clipped close to the base so as to leave no stem to cause damage in handling and shipping. Appearance is important, too much sun exposure causes sunscald–brown, russeted blemishes and roughening of the rind.

SA Fruit Farms
 

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