Growing Tomatoes in Growbags – Hydroponic way

Whenever I see a commercial greenhouse or farm, I always get this feeling..”why can’t we grow plants like they do?”. The moment this thought comes in, you start paying attention to details. You try to do everything the right way and see if you can perfect the art.
My goal (more like a wish) right from the beginning is always to reduce the gap between commercial and home gardening in terms of  yield.  In some cases I was able to come little closer but in some I failed.
In this post, I will write about growing tomatoes in grow bags. Grow bags are lay flat bags filled with potting mix. Unlike containers, they don’t provide depth but they give enough room for the roots to explore. In this experiment I used grow bags made of coco peat. They don’t contain any nutrient in it and hence its our duty to provide all the nutrients the plants need.
It all starts from the seed. This time, I had some seeds of tomato from IndoAmerican seeds. A variety called INDAM Naveen. I have already grown this variety and was impressed with the productivity.
The seeds were sown thickly in a small  pot and once they showed a true leaf, they were moved into a Pro tray.
Two weeks later they looked like this.
6/2/2010


Now this is a typical grow bag. Its ~3 feet long and contains compressed cocopeat slab in it.  Its ideal for growing 3-4 plants per bag.


In my case, I wanted to grow 3 tomato plants in this and hence made markings like below. Cut the bag on the lines made so that when you open the flips, you get a square hole cut out.


Next is to run water through it. Easiest is to use a pipe/hose tube. Let it soak and as it soaks, it expands as well. You can see the grow bag growing. Give it some time. Once its done, you will have fully expanded grow bag thats ready to take plants in.
Once expanded, these grow bags will look like this below. To transplant, I took juice boxes cut them into three and used them to hold the plant when they are small. Kinda made it look like Rockwool cubes .
Now comes the drainage part. Carefully make a slit 0.5-1 inch above the bottom surface of the grow bag at 2 or 3 places on the sides. As it is covered on most of the sides water loss through medium is very less. The seedlings that were in the pro tray were transplanted 3 per bag.
17/2/2010

You can also see that I have lined the bench with black polythene sheet. This is to collect all the drainage water at one place. There is a slope provided to the bench, so all the drainage flow to the lowest point, where the reservoir is kept
Alright, Now comes the interesting part. How do we water this thing?. Though it can be hand watered ( which I did for first couple of weeks), it can become very difficult as the opening is very small and needs lot of patience to water it. So obviously the next step was to install a drip system and automate it. Thats lot stuff mentioned in a single line right?. we will munch bite at a a time.
So here it is after 10 days time. The stake wires tied out nice and you can also see the spaghetti drip wires. These wires deliver the nutrient water to the plants.
28/2/2010

Dripping in action.

Another shot of the tomatoes on 11/3/2010

Tomatoes already started to form.


Setting up Automated Drip System:
Now comes the interesting part. Setting up the automated drip system.  In Grow bag systems the nutrient is generally not recycled. But I didnt have the bandwidth to waste the nutrients. So I thought I would re use the drainage as well.
Things necessary for a automated drip system are :

• A submersible pump.
• Programmable timer
• Reservoir
• Drip tubes(Usually 12mm)
• Spaghetti tubes
• Tee joints & End caps.

Submersible Pump:
This pumps are available in SJP Road in Bangalore( Road parallel to SP Road).This is from a company called Tullu. Costs about INR400-500 and there are cheaper chinese counterpart for INR 200 or so. It pumps water at about 400-500 litres per hour to height of 4 feet. It varies with pump to pump. Needs 240 V AC to operate.


Programmable Timer:
It took really long time to get this piece of hardware in Bangalore. Myself and my friend Anil Hande were searching and searching. It comes as a bare bone timer and we need to do some more work before it gets usable.


Like I said, the timer has just leads for connections and is not very user friendly.  Below is the my version of the completed timer box. I got some help from Anil to get the wiring in place. You
can check out his version and more information on its wiring Anil’s Album

I have programmed in such a way that it operates for 15 minutes every 3 hours.

Reservoir: Here is my reservoir. Ok ..Not very nice looking but then who cares as long it is cheap. Another peace I picked up from local plastic recycle shop. The drained water pours in via the black poly sheet. Next to it you can spot the drip tube connected to Pump going out of the reservoir.

Here are some small accessories that you will need to setup a drip system.
They are called joints. On the top left, is simply joint, next is Tee joint and the one below is Tap joint. You can use them where ever you feel they are needed. There is also Elbow joint in case your drip tube needs to bend, I havent shown them in the pic. They cost INR 1 each. Available in SJP Road.

This is called Spaghetti tube. This tube is used to take the nutrient from the main drip tube to all the plants. You have to connect this tube to the one that brings the nutrients from the reservoir. To connect this you need a small connector which is pictured below this pic.


This connector is a small piece one side of which goes into the main 12mm drip tube and the other end goes into the spaghetti . Costs very cheap.

This small piece is nothing but a poker to make even sized holes for the connector to go into the main drip pipe.  Handle with care. Its very sharp.

The pump pushes water from one side of the tube, the other side has to be closed to that the dripping happens on all the spaghettis connected to it. Use an endcap like below. You can either use an end cap or use a tap joint and simply close it .

OR

This is how it looks when the whole thing is in place, alive and pumping!


The tomatoes are growing like crazy and they have already hit the roof. I am pictured below to just show how short I am  .

Courtesy - geekgardener, on April 18th, 2010

Grow bags are an ideal way to grow vegetables ..
http://www.technoexports.com/?page_id=347

See application form on Page No 48 : http://www.keralaagriculture.gov.in/pdf/wi_39.pdf

Become a Farmer

How to Become a Farmer Without Experience

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit


So, you want to become a farmer, but you've never grown a crop or raised livestock? Here's how to break into agriculture and compensate for your lack of farming experience.

Steps

1. Decide why you're interested in farming. It's hard work, and the industry is, for the most part, steeped in tradition (i.e. newcomers aren't exactly welcomed with open arms). If you've never farmed a day in your life, you're going to get a lot of raised eyebrows from farmers and non-farmers alike. Be ready to answer the question "Why do you want to farm?" with confidence.
   
2. Choose what kind of farming you'd like to do. There are many sub-fields in agriculture such as:
   • dairy (milk and cheese)
   • grains (wheat, corn, oats, etc.)
   • meat (beef, pork, lamb, poultry, eggs)
   • vegetables & greens
   • fruit orchards
   • vineyards
   • herbs
   • organic
   • fiber (wool, angora, etc.)
   Do you want to specialize in one of the above, or do a little bit of everything? The trend in agriculture is towards commercialization and specialization. Generally, the larger the farm, the less diversified it is.
3. Find farms that you like. There might be some in your area, there might not. Ask around. Search the Web, and find out about county fairs and visit them. It's there that you'll find serious farmers. Talk to them. Ask them what they do, how their farms have changed over time, what direction they think the field is going in, and if you could stop by their farm and visit some time. Farmers are generally friendly, humble, and welcoming people, though some are more guarded than others.
   
4. Dress the part. This may sound superficial, but if you walked into a law firm interview dressed in a pair of jeans and boots, it's the same as walking onto a farm wearing a pair of dockers and loafers. If you're just starting out in farming, you're probably going to be doing a lot of physical labor. Wear a clean t-shirt, jeans, and work boots. Invest in a good pair of work gloves because your hands will be sore and full of blisters in a very short time. If you have long hair, tie it back (consider a braid) so it doesn't get caught in anything.
   
5. Become an apprentice. Offer your services as a laborer. This is the most critical step in becoming a farmer—working in exchange for an opportunity to learn. Since you're just starting out, you'll be entering at the bottom of the totem pole (as is the case in most careers). If you want to earn respect, you must:
   • Be physically fit. If you think you can farm without crouching, bending, lifting, or pulling, you're being unrealistic. Only farm managers who've paid their dues can skip some physical labor, but even they often must push their bodies close to the limit for the job.
   • Be flexible. You must be willing to do anything and everything that needs to get done on a working farm. This may include: cleaning feces and urine, climbing ladders, driving a tractor on steep hillsides (which is very dangerous), killing pests like rats and rabbits, handling unruly animals (that may want to bite or trample you), weeding or harvesting for 12 hours or more, applying pesticides, slaughtering, butchering, euthanizing, etc. Farming isn't just rainbows and butterflies, you know. If there's something you're not willing to do, state it up-front, and understand that your options may be limited as such.
   • Express your desire to learn. Watch people do what they do and ask them to teach you how. Whether it's fixing the tractor, or deciding on what to feed the cows, or understanding the plant cycle, you'll never become a farmer until you understand the hands-on "how" behind everything that makes a farm work.
   • Have a good sense of humor. Laughter makes the day go by faster, especially when your muscles are aching and you feel like your fingers are going to fall off and the weather has ruined your plans once again. A positive attitude is an asset to any farm!

Tips

• Farmers of today are businessmen, they have to be able to survive. Understand farm economics, farm politics and consider classes at college that teach agri-business. If you want to make it past the farm labor stage you must be informed on all aspects of farming.
  
• You may need to relocate. Some regions of the country are more conducive to farming than others. Check what farms are producing in the area to which you want to relocate before deciding what to farm or finding the best area for what it is you wish to produce (this may be quite a move).
  
• Don't shy away from mechanical tasks. Become as familiar as you can with farm machinery, how to use it safely, and how to maintain and fix it. Even the smallest farms usually depend on a rototiller or small tractor.
  
• The pay for farm laborers is often extremely low, or nothing. Many positions include housing, but usually only on a seasonal basis (i.e., during growing and harvest seasons but not during the winter).
  

Be on time and be nice to your boss!

Warnings

• Farming can be extremely dangerous, especially when working with animals and machinery. Most employers do not offer health insurance to farm laborers, so make sure you know what your risks are, and be careful!
  
• Many current farmers dislike newbies for a host of reasons - but mainly because you're new and they don't know you or what impact you'll have on their market share. It is best to not "rock the boat" too much during your first few years. Try not to bring too many changes or too many ideas to the table when discussing with locals how you're conducting your farming methods. This building of trust will aid you greatly when seed or harvest time comes and you need an extra piece of million-dollar equipment from your neighbor to help out.
  

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Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Become a Farmer Without Experience. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to grow Sweet Peas

(Sweet Peas Org) Sweet Peas are actually very easy to grow. You can simply plant them in the soil where you intend them to grow in March or April in the UK (be guided by local weather conditions) and leave them to it. By July you should have flowers. However, to get the best from your seeds you should consider planting them in autumn (late September to early November) or winter (January to February). This will enable you to have stronger and earlier flowering plants.

A summary of the Sweet Pea year :

September/October

Choose your varieties carefully (see Favourite Sweet Peas). Whether you wish to grow varieties for exhibition or for decoration, it pays to select named varieties from the specialist seed merchants – several of whom advertise in the Society's publications. You will tend to get better flowers and you can select your own colour combinations.

In the Midlands and the South of the UK consider planting seeds now.

November/December

You can still plant seeds now but they might need a bit of heat to germinate. You are aiming for strong compact plants so bring them up 'hard.' Keep them in a coldframe (or a cold greenhouse if you do not have access to a coldframe). Don't coddle them and keep the lights open as much as possible. Close and lag if bad weather is forecast.

January/February

You can still plants seeds now. This tends to be the favoured time for growers in the north of the UK. Nip out top two leaves when the seedlings have developed four.

March/April

Time to plant out. Be guided by local weather conditions and not the calendar. However, if the ground is cold and/or very wet it is best to wait. The plants will soon catch up.

You can plant seeds straight in the ground where you want them to grow now.

May/June

Plants will start to flower. Keep the blooms cut – if they set seed flowering will be curtailed.

July/August

Water if the weather is dry but make sure you do this early on in the day to minimise bud drop and to prevent scorching. Feed with a weak solution of your favourite plant food (formulated for flowers) if your plants are starting to look weaker. For exhibition blooms feed preferably before they start throwing blooms with only three florets to a stem.

How to prepare the site:

Much has been written on this subject but the best advice is to be governed by your own soil conditions. Sweet Peas benefit from well cultivated soil and adding a little well-rotted manure or organic compost may be beneficial. Take care not to overdo it though. Heavy soil will benefit from autumn preparation whilst the lightest soils should be prepared for planting in late winter/early spring.

How to sow:

For best results use named varieties or cultivars (see Gallery) in good potting compost and do not overcrowd – plant 1 seed to a 3 inch (8cm) pot or 6 to 8 seeds to a 6 inch (15cm) pot. Place the pots in a cold frame or greenhouse and cover them with newspaper until the seedlings have germinated. If you are planting in January to February your seedlings may need a little gentle heat to germinate. Make sure you stop the heat as soon as germination has occurred, otherwise your plants will get leggy.

Problems with germination? Some varieties have hard coats and may be more difficult to germinate. You could try soaking the seed overnight before sowing (and only sow those that have swollen) or nick the seed’s hard coat by gently rubbing against some sandpaper, on the side away from the 'eye' or scar on the seed. However, most people find that this is not necessary and there is a belief that soaking causes undue stress and weakens the plants.

How to look after your seedlings:

Overwinter your seedlings in a cold frame or cold greenhouse, bringing them up as hard as possible. Take precautions against slugs, snails, mice and birds (and cats who may find them to be a tempting bed). Watch out for bad weather – when frosts are forecast, your seedlings will need some extra protection. Close the frame’s lights and add some lagging (eg newspaper, bubble wrap, sacking etc). If the weather is particularly cold or the frosts prolonged, leave the lagging on to allow the seedlings to thaw slowly. When the first four leaves have formed, nip out the top two leaves to encourage bushiness. Do not forget to keep your plants moist if the weather is dry.

How to plant out:

For plants you wish to grow using the cordon method plant out your seedlings 8 to15 inches (20 to 38cm) apart in rows in March or April (in the UK) in your previously prepared site (see How to prepare the site). Each plant will have its own cane to grow up.

If you want to grow your plants naturally (termed 'on the bush') set plants 8 to12 inches (20 to 30cm) apart and give them something to scramble up such as a fence with pea net, or a wigwam of canes with some string or raffia for the tendrils to catch on to. Do not forget protection against slugs, snails and birds if they are a problem to you.

Sweet Peas perform best in an open sunny site.

How to look after your plants after planting out:

Well hardened off plants should not require any further protection unless the site is particularly exposed. Let the plants get on with things themselves for about 4 to 6 weeks. If you are using the cordon method restrict the growth to the strongest shoots and tie in to the support. If you are growing your plants naturally, encourage the small plants to cling to the support by tying in at first and spreading out the shoots over the support. If your plants are particularly bushy you may have to remove some shoots to prevent overcrowding.

Make sure your plants do not suffer from lack of water but remember not to water during the hottest part of the day. Extra feeding probably will not be necessary if your soil was well prepared.

Enjoy the flowers which should start to appear from late May to early June. To prolong flowering ensure that the flowers do not set seed, take the flowers into the house and enjoy their scent.

How to grow using the cordon method:

This is the method favoured by exhibition growers and anyone wanting to grow top quality flowers. It requires more time with a commensurate improvement in blooms. You will find that you will have fewer flowers using this method than growing naturally but they will be of much better quality.

After planting out leave your plants for around 4 to 6 weeks to settle. After this time, depending on the local weather conditions, they will probably be at least 12 inches (30cm) tall. Restrict the growth to one shoot by cutting or nipping out the extra shoots and tie the remaining shoot loosely to its support. You might want to use metal rings to tie in your plants as these tend to be quickest overall but anything will do. Continue to nip out side shoots which form at every leaf axil, tying in the plant as necessary. You should also remove the twisty tendrils seen at the end of the pairs of leaves which form up the stem. It is rather like growing tomatoes on the cordon. Do not allow flowers to set seed. Most growers cut them as they open which means one stem per plant every day or every other day, depending on weather conditions. Many growers will also nip out the early blooms as they form to further strengthen their plants, doing so until the blooms start to form with four florets per stem or until June.

Growing on the cordon means that all the plant's energy is concentrated into producing better flowers and growth of the single branch. This means that your plants will soon reach the top of your canes. You will then need to 'layer' them. Do not confuse this with propagation – all this means is to drop your plants down to the bottom of the canes so that they can grow up again. You may need to do this more than once during the season. The easiest way to layer is to undo the ties and gently lie your plants horizontally along the rows. They will naturally turn upwards in a day or two and you can then tie them in to the nearest cane and continue as before. You may choose to tie train them up a cane further along the row straight away. Take care not to snap the plant as they can be very brittle. Choose a warm day and make any bends gradual.

Common Pests and Diseases

Mice are the greatest danger to the seed during the period of germination. Later on, watch out for birds, slugs and snails.

Aphids transmit mosaic virus. Plants start to grow poorly and have speckled leaves and flowers. Pull out infected plants to prevent the disease from spreading.

Bud drop – every Sweet Pea grower experiences this at some point in his or her growing career! In periods of cold weather the developing flowerbuds may turn yellow and fall off. Some varieties are more prone to this than others.

Leaf Scorch – leaves lose colour from the bottom upwards and dry off or 'scorch' but the plant continues to flower until the top leaves are affected.

Pollen beetles – Vast numbers of these small black insects can accumulate in the blooms, particularly on lighter coloured varieties. There is no chemical control available so the best advice is to place vases of affected flowers in a dark room with a light source at one end. The beetles will be attracted to the light and should abandon the flowers.

Weak links in farm production chain

The weak points in agricultural production chain are well known. Professionals have identified them, calculated their cost and also suggested remedial measures. It is time the government needs to move in quickly and overcome these weaknesses.