Get Rid of Mites in Chickens naturaly

By Morgon Luvall Newquist

eHow Contributor

Chickens are often affected by mites.

Mites are a common problem with chickens. Dealing with a mite infestation is something most chicken owners face at some point. The key to getting rid of an infestation is to clean and treat the chicken coop rather than the birds. There are many commercial pesticides on the market for dealing with mites, but there are also several natural ways to kill the infestation and keep it from reoccurring.

Clean the Coop

Cleaning out the coop is the first step in getting rid of mites. Mites live in bedding, food dishes, and corners or cracks in the coop. If you don't clean and treat the coop, the chickens continue to catch mites from the environment. Muck out feces, and throw out all the bedding. Discard food and water, and clean the dishes with a mixture of vinegar and water. It's also effective to power wash the inside of the chicken boxes and the coop to clear out any mites and their eggs.

Neem Seed Oil

Neem seed oil, which is available at most gardening centers, kills mites by disturbing their life cycle. Neem oil is natural, and comes from the seeds of an evergreen tree. Using a sprayer, mist a mixture of neem seed oil and water onto chickens and their boxes. Neem is powerful, so use 2 tbsp. of neem oil per 1 gallon of water to create the spray.

Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous earth is a special type of dirt that is full of sharp edges that pierce and kill small pests like mites. It is harmless to humans and animals, and doesn't contain any pesticides or chemicals. Spread the diatomaceous earth around the coop and then vacuum or sweep it up. Also rub the earth into the feathers of infested chickens to kill the mites.

Various Oils and Herbs

A number of herbal insecticides are used on chickens, including tea tree oil, citronella, garlic, soybean oil, peppermint, lemongrass, eucalyptus and cedar wood oils. Chickens are bathed with soap containing these oils, or treated with a spray containing the oils mixed with water. The oils are very concentrated, so the sprays contain only 1 to 2 percent oil. The feet and legs of chickens are rubbed with soybean oil, linseed oil or any type of vegetable oil to help with scaly mites.

Vaseline

Vaseline is also used to treat scaly leg mites. Spread Vaseline onto the chicken's legs and feet. The jelly suffocates the mites and soothes the aggravated skin. Vaseline is spread into corners and cracks as a sort of sealant to suffocate live mites, and keep new ones from entering the chicken coop.

Herbal Deterrents

Once the mites have been killed, there are several natural ways to try and keep them from returning. The same herbal sprays made to kill the mites are used on the birds and their bedding to keep mites away. Eucalyptus or lemongrass leaves are crushed and placed in the chickens' normal bedding. Another herbal deterrent is crushed garlic in the chickens' drinking water; mites do not like the scent or taste of garlic.

Site Selection for Poultry Farming (Urdu)

Poultry farming and processing has become second largest industry after textile in Pakistan. 


Currently millions of farmers and related people are directly or indirectly are attached with the industry. 


Although the industry growing with a good pace however many precautions are required in order to get most out of it.


If proper planning and management has not been taken care of then there is a chance of disease spread in the farms.

Livestock and poultry professionals has laid out some guidelines for the starting a poultry farm in Pakistan:

1. The poultry farm shed space must be adequate to accommodate number of chicken are raising in the farm.
2. For broiler chicken 25,000 heads are good number to raise while for layers it could be up to 30,000 in order to get maximum benefits
3. Before selecting the site water should be tested from laboratory. Only sites with suitable water for chicken must be considered.
4. Dont choose the sites which have chances of floods or which stops the flow of water during rains.
5. Reliable power supply is also important factor for the consideration of sites for poultry farms.
6. Avoid choosing sites for near the rice cultivation fields.
7. Poultry farm should be accessible with road network and connected with the markets.

Pre-Placement Checklist for New Chicks

The key to successful broiler rearing starts with having a systematic and efficient management program in place. This program must start well before the chicks arrive on-site. Pre-placement house preparation as part of a management program provides a basis for an efficient and profitable flock of broilers. The following checks need to be made:

Equipment Check:

• After confirming that the equipment capabilities meet the number of chicks to be placed,
• install the necessary brooding equipment and check that all equipment is functional. Ensure
• that all water, feed, heat and ventilation systems are properly adjusted.

Heater Checks:

• Verify that all heaters are installed at the recommended height and are operating at maximum output. 
• Heaters should be checked and serviced an adequate time BEFORE pre-heating commences

Thermostats or Probes Check:

• Placed at bird height and in the center of the brooding area.
• Minimum and maximum thermometers should be placed adjacent to thermostat.
• Temperature ranges should be recorded daily and not deviate by more than 2 °C (4 °F) over a 24 hour period.
• These should be calibrated at least annually or sooner if doubt exists about accuracy.

Floor temperature Check:

• Houses should be preheated so that both the temperature (floor & ambient) and
• humidity are stabilized 24 hours before placement.
• To achieve the above target, pre-heating needs to commence at least 48 hours before
• chick placement.
• Pre-heating time is dependant on climate conditions, house insulation and heating
• capacity and will vary from farm to farm.
• Chicks do not have the ability to regulate body temperature for the first 5 days and thermo regulation is not fully developed until 14 days of age. The chick is highly dependent upon the manager to provide the correct litter temperature. If the litter and air temperatures are too cold, internal body temperature will decrease, leading to increased huddling, reduced feed and water intake, stunted growth and susceptibility to disease.
• At placement, floor temperatures should be at least 32 °C (90 °F) with forced air heating.
• If radiant heaters / brooder stoves are used, floor temperatures should be 40.5 °C (105 °F) under the heat source.

Minimum Ventilation Check:

• Minimum ventilation should be activated as soon as the preheating begins to remove waste gasses and any excess moisture.
• Seal air leaks to eliminate drafts on chicks.

Drinker Check:

• 14-16 drinkers/1,000 chicks (includes supplemental) should be provided within the brooding area of which 8-10 can be bell type drinkers.
• All drinkers should be flushed to remove any residual sanitizer.
• Adjust pressure to produce a droplet of water visible on each nipple without dripping.
• Check for water leaks and air locks.
• Ensure that nipple drinkers are at the chicks’ eye level.
• Water must be clean and fresh.
• Supplemental drinkers should be placed in such a way that the chicks will make the association between supplemental drinkers and the main system

Feeder Check:

• Remove all water remaining from clean-out prior to filling.
• Supplemental feeders should be provided for the first 7-10 days in the form of paper, trays or lids.
• Trays should be provided at a rate of one per 50 chicks.
• Supplemental feeders should be placed between the main feed and drinker lines and adjacent to the brooders.
• It is of utmost importance that the supplementary feeding system does not run empty as this will place great stress on the chick and reduce yolk sac absorption.
• The base of the supplementary feeders should never be exposed - keep full at all times!
• Supplemental feeders should be refreshed three times daily until all the chicks are able to gain access to the main feeding system. This generally occurs at the end of the first week.
• Feed should be provided as a good quality crumble.
• Do not place feed or water directly under the heat source as this may reduce feed and water intake.
• The automatic system should be placed on the floor to make access easier for the chick. Where possible, flood automatic feeding systems with feed.
• If using paper, the feed area should be a minimum of 50% of the brooding area. 50-65 grams of feed per chick on the paper is recommended. The paper should be placed near the automatic drinking system so the chick can have easy access to both feed and water

fed chicken

Feeding Indigenous Chicken

Well fed chicken bring you good income

Indigenous chickens are in high demand. Farmers should rear them on commercial basis.

There is a high potential for indigenous chicken production in Kenya. But the main problem is that majority of farmers do not consider rearing indigenous chickens as a serious occupation. They do it to meet their home consumption needs and rarely on commercial basis. This is a missed chance. Looking at the current market prices for indigenous chicken and even eggs, there is a good reason why farmers should rear them in high numbers for the market.

To start with, indigenous chicken and eggs fetch a higher price in the market than hybrid ones. For example, an indigenous chicken egg goes for a retail price of KSh 15 while a hen or cock can fetch as much as KSh 500 especially during the festive season in December, when they are in short supply due to increased demand from consumers. Therefore, a farmer who wants to get a good return must do correct timing to ensure the chicken are ready at around the Christmas period.

Indeed, indigenous chicken are always in demand across the country. It is therefore easy for farmers to identify a market near them to which they can supply on a regular basis when they start production.

Planning is important

To produce chicken in big volumes and with incubators, a farmer must have adequate knowledge of breeding. Without breeding experience and management, it is very difficult to go into commercial production. If the farmer has identified the right breed of chicken to start with, the next stage is to count the number of eggs the chicken can lay, say in one week. With a rough estimate of eggs, a farmer can be able to know the size of incubator to buy.

Feeding indigenous chicken is a challenge

To be successful, farmers have to identify the source of feeds for their chicken. The feed should be the right quantity and quality for breeders, laying hens and even chicks. With some training, farmers can be able to make their own feeds at home without having to buy from the shops. Although production potential of indigenous chicken is lower than that one of hybrid chickens, they are very good in converting feed into meat and eggs – even in areas with very little feed. It is very easy to increase their egg, meat production and growth through proper feeding.

Feed for all stages of growth

The cheapest way to reduce the cost of feeding is to allow the chicken to go on free range, at the same time providing supplementary feeds that will keep them healthy and productive. Like other animals, poultry requires feeds that give them energy, protein as well as vitamins, minerals and water.

Good poultry production involves proper selection of feed for each of breeds we have mentioned above. For instance, feed for chicken meant for egg production is different in composition from feed for chicken used for meat production. In the same way, feed for chicken meant for breeding purposes is quite different from that meant for both egg and meat production. If farmers want to rear improved breeds of indigenous chicken, then they have to provide adequate feed that is suitable at each growing stage.

These are divided into three categories:

A starter diet or chick mash: This is a high protein feed that is given to chicks, from day old up to 8 weeks. Each chick should eat 2 kg in the 8 weeks.

Growers mash: This contains medium protein. It is offered from 9 weeks up to 18 weeks. Each grower consumes about 18 kg during this period.

Layers mash: This is lower in proteins. It is offered to hens from 19 to 75 weeks. Allow 120 g of feed per bird per day. An egg-laying hen consumes about 45 kg of layers’ mash in a year.

Examples of home-made rations;

Ingredients (%)	Chicks	Growers	Layers
Maize	30	25	35
Wheat	20	25
Wheat bran	10	15
Rice bran	10	10	35
Sunflower cake	10	5
Cotton seed cake	5	10
Soya cake			10
Fish meal	2	2	15
Beans	10	5
Bone meal	1	1
Limestone	0.5	0.5	2
Salt	0.5	0.5	0.5
Mineral premix	1	1	1
Ground dried legume leaves			0.5
	100	100	100

Rations for supplementing local chicks;

Ingredient	Quantity
1) Crushed maize/sorghum or millet	1 kg tin
2) Wheat/sorghum or millet bran	1 kg tin
3) Sunflower/ sesame /groundnut cake	2 match boxes
4) Bonemeal / Salt mix	1 matchbox
5) Fishmeal (omena)	2 matchboxes
6) Sesbania/ leucaena leaves	2 matchboxes

Feed at different ages;

Age	Intake (g)
1 week	12-15
2 weeks	15-21
3 weeks	21- 35
4-6 weeks	35-50
7-8 weeks	55-60
16-27 weeks	68-80
28 weeks	100

Courtesy : The magazine for sustainable agriculture in Kenya.

Poultry Breed

List of Poultry Breeds

Introduction


This is only a very brief guide about the different breeds to help the novice poultry enthusiast understand were all the breeds come from and what they have to offer.  It is NOT a standard, and in some cases only one persons opinion.  Different countries have their own standards which should be sought for specific breed characteristics.  Some are as follows:

• American Standard of Perfection (America) 
• American Bantam Association Standard (America) 
• New Zealand Poultry Standard (New Zealand) 
• British Poultry Standard (England)

Note: some countries categorise breeds slightly differently to others.


HISTORY:


Our domestic races of fowls as we know them today have evolved from the native Jungle Fowls that lived in the Indian Continent. Our modern races are the result of these birds artificially selected for:


        1. Egg laying
        2. Flesh quality and quantity
        3. Cock fighting ability
        4. General appearance.


During the Middle Ages 3 main types of fowls were developed in separate regions:


1. Mediterranean fowls: these seldom brood and lay white eggs. breeds known today are leghorn, Andalusions, Minorcas, Anconas, Spanish.
2. Asian Game fowls: these have hard, tight feathering and are primarily a fighting fowl.  They lay
    brown eggs and are good brooders (sitters).
3. Asian Soft Feather fowls: These were developed in the mountain regions of Asia.  They have
    loose, soft feathers and feathered legs. examples are Brahmas, Cochin & Langshan.


By crossing these three races of fowls, new breeds have been developed which are popular today.  these can be grouped as follows:
1. English breeds: These generally have white skin & legs. breeds include Orpington, Sussex &
    Dorking.
2. European breeds: These generally lay brown eggs and breeds include Barnevelder &
    Welsummer.
3. American breeds: These generally have yellow pigment and breeds include Plymouth rock, Rhode Island Red, Jersy Giant, Wyandotte.


Commercial fowls: Cross breed or hybrid fowls selected for their productivity, with little attention paid to appearance.  They are developed to maximise the production of meat or eggs.
House or Farm fowls: These include one breed or random cross breeds that are NOT bred to a recognised standard.

Pure breed fowls: birds bred and selected to conform as closely as possible to a set Standard which outlines desirable and undesirable features.


LARGE FOWLS-HARD FEATHER:
These are often called game fowls with their origins going back to when they were bred for cock fights.  Their feathers are tight and closely follow the contour of the body.
* breed: Asil
   origin: Asia-India
   colours: light red, dark red, red wheaten.
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comment: oldest game fowl breed.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Indian Game
   origin: Cornwall, England
   colours: dark, jubilee, blue
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comment: Meaty looking with huge breast and thighs.  Known as Cornish in America.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Malay Game
   origin: Asia
   colours: Black, white, spangled, pile, duckwing.
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comment: very tall, leggy birds.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Old English Game
   origin: England
   colours: over 30 known colours. main colours include black, blue, black red, pile, duckwing,
                crele, spangle.
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comment: Muscular birds originally bred for cock fights and it's customary to dub the male
                    combs.
--------------------------------------------------------------

LARGE FOWLS-SOFT FEATHER-LIGHT BREEDS
These fowls have loose feathering, with a distinct soft feel. They are light in frame and muscle and usually very good egg layers.
* breed:Ancona
   origin: Italy
   colour: Mottled (each feather black with a white tip)
   egg colour: White
   comment: excellent egg layer but sometimes nervous.
 --------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Araucana
    origin: Chile & Peru
    colours: lavender, black & any Old English game colour.
    egg colour: Blue/green
    comment: they have a unique egg colour.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Andalusian
   origin: Spain
   colour: Blue (feathers blue with black lacing)
   egg colour: White
   comment: good egg layer but can be flighty.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Frizzle
   origin: China
   colours: black, white, buff, blue
   egg colour: white/cream
   comment: purely an exhibition bird with each feather curling towards the head. Often seen as
                    bantams.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Hamburg
   origin: Europe
   colours: gold spangled, silver spangled, gold pencilled, silver pencilled.
   egg colour: white
   comment: has a rose comb.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Leghorn
   origin: Italy
   colours: about 12 known colours.  main colours include black, brown, blue, white.
   egg colour: white
   comment: good egg layer.  usually has single comb.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Minorca
   origin: Spain
   colours: Black, white, buff, blue.
   egg colour: white
   comment: good egg layer. eggs large.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Campine
   origin: Belgium
   colours: Silver, gold. (black barring over gold or silver ground colour).
   egg colour: white
   comment: used for autosexing breeds.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Poland
   origin: Europe
   colours: White-crested black, chamois (buff laced), white crested blue, white, gold, silver.
   egg colour: white
   comment: very old breed with an upright crest.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Silkie
   origin: Asia, China, or Japan??
   colours: many colours.  main ones are white, black, gold, blue.
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comment: unusual silky feathering, with blue/purple skin, crest, feathered legs & five toes. make
                    very good mothers.  Classified as bantams in America.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Spanish
   origin: Mediterranean
   colour: black
   egg colour: white
   comment: has a striking appearance of having a excessive white face. very old and now rare
                    breed.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Welsummer
   origin: Holland
   colours: male-black red, female-partridge.
   egg colour: brown/dark brown
   comment: lays a deep brown egg and lots of them.
--------------------------------------------------------------
LARGE FOWLS-SOFT FEATHER-HEAVY BREEDS:
These birds tend to be heavy in frame, and can be very large. They are usually looser in feather than light breeds, and meatier but lay slightly less eggs.  They are a good all round fowl.
* breed:Australorp
   origin: Australia
   colour: black
   egg colour: tinted/brown
   comment: good all round bird.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Barnevelder
   origin: Holland
   colours: Black, double laced
   egg colour: deep brown
   comment: popular for their brown eggs.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Brahma
   origin: Asia
   colours: Light, dark, white, gold, birchen
   egg colour: tinted
   comment: feathered legs and feet.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Dorking
   origin: England
   colours: silver grey, red, white, dark, cuckoo.
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comment: has five toes.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Faverolle
   origin: France
   colours: Black, salmon, ermine, blue, buff, white.
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comment: bearded fowls with feathered legs and five toes.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Langshan
   origin: China
   colour: black
   egg colour: tinted/brown
   comment: two varieties; Chinese and Croad.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: New Hampshire
   origin: U.S.A.
   colour: Red/orange (chest nut)
   egg colour: tinted/brown
   comment: Bred from Rhode Island Red.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Orpington
   origin: Kent, England
   colours: Buff, blue, white, black
   egg colour: light brown
   comment: Queen mothers breed
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Plymouth Rock
   origin: U.S.A.
   colours: barred, partridge, buff, white, black.
   egg colour: tinted
   comment: popular all round fowl.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Rhode Island
   origin: U.S.A.
   colours: Red, White
   egg colour: light brown/brown
   comment: popular amongst rural people
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Sussex
   origin: England
   colours: light, speckled, buff, white, silver
   egg colour: tinted
   comment: popular farm fowl with excellent table qualities. Also good egg layer.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Transylvanian Naked Neck
   origin: Hungary
   colours: white, black, blue, cuckoo, buff, red.
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comments: featherless bright red neck.  naturally has less feathers than other breeds.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Wyandotte
   origin: U.S.A.
   colours: many colours.  self colours (white, blue, buff, red, black), barred/cuckoo, laced (blue,
                 gold, buff, silver), columbian (&buff), crele (gold & silver), silver pencilled, partridge.
   egg colour: tinted/light brown
 comment: good all round fowl.  Very popular. Has rose comb.
--------------------------------------------------------------

BANTAMS-HARD FEATHER:
Similar description to their large fowl counterpart but about 1/5 to 1/4 the size.
* breed:Modern Game
   origin: England
   colours: similar to Old English Game colours
   egg colour: tinted/cream
   comment: customary to dub males. Breed has very long legs, tall and well muscled. Large fowls
                    of this breed are very rare but do exist. It is a showman's bird.
--------------------------------------------------------------

BANTAMS-SOFT FEATHER (miniature):
Similar to their large counter part, but about 1/5 to 1/4 the size. ie they are miniatures of large birds bred down in size or developed from crosses with other bantams.

BANTAMS-SOFT FEATHER (true):
These breeds have no large counterpart.  These breeds are very ornamental and popular at shows.  They are a TRUE bantam, and not just miniatures of another breed.
* breed:Japanese
   origin: Japan
   colours: Black tailed white, white, black, grey, mottled, blue
   egg colour: white/tinted
   comment: Very tall upright tail, and short legs. Carries lethal gene for short legs.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Pekin
   origin: Asia
   colours: black, black red birchen, buff, blue, blue red, brown red, barred, columbian,
                 cuckoo, mealy grey, mottled, partridge, splashed, white, wheaten blue tail, wheaten
                 black tail.
   egg colour: white/cream
   comment: small rounded bird with heavily feathered feet & legs. In America they are classified
                    as  miniatures of the large Cochin.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Rosecomb
   origin: England
   colours: black, blue, white
   egg colour: white/cream
   comment: Exhibition fowl.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Sebright
   origin: England
   colours: Gold, Silver (each feather laced)
   egg colour: white/cream
   comment: Male is hen feathered, breed created for Exhibition
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed:Barbu d'Uccle
   origin: Belgium
   colours: blue quail, millefleur, porcelaine etc..
   egg colour: cream
   comment: feathered feet & legs, muffed and bearded.
--------------------------------------------------------------
* breed: Barbu d'Anvers
   origin: Belgium
   colours: similar to Barbu d'Uccle
   egg colour: cream
   comment: breed very similar to Barbu d'Anvers, but has clean legs.
--------------------------------------------------------------
SITTERS/NON SITTERS:
Some breeds naturally go broody and hatch eggs successfully, while others seldom go broody and make bad mothers. Rather than list all the breeds that are sitters (ie they successfully go broody), I will only list breeds that are non-sitters. This way, if your breed is not listed, then it should have no problem in hatching out eggs.
Non-Sitters: Ancona, Andalusian, Bresse, Campine, Hamburg, Lakenvelder, Leghorn, Minorca, Old English Peasant Fowl, Poland, Redcap, Scots Grey, Silican Buttercup, Spanish, Welsummer.
For ducks, the Indian Runner is the only breed that is a Non- Sitter.




Original Source:Mr. Andy VardyP.O. Box 7Tallangatta, Vic. 3700AUSTRALIAOriginal Post Here