Growing Tomatoes & Tomato Growing Tips

A complete guide on how to grow tomatoes that are perfect and flavorful!

The most frequent questions I get from spring through early fall concern growing tomatoes properly and how to fix, or avoid, their associated problems.

We all love to grow tomatoes, but they do have their quirks. I have, therefore, put together the most comprehensive article I can in order to answer all the different questions, and make it easier for everyone to grow any type of tomatoes successfully, with confidence, and most importantly, easily.

Since, when growing anything, problems can occur anywhere along the process, we will cover all aspects of how to grow tomatoes including:

• Climate and Soil
• Heirlooms and Hybrids
• Seeds and Seedlings
• Planting and Fertilizing
• Watering and Mulching
• Determinate, Indeterminate, Semi-determinate
• To Pinch out Suckers or Not
• Commom Problems & Solutions
• Prevent Diseases From Starting
• Harvesting
• How to Ripen Green Tomato Tricks
• Popular Tomato Varieties
• Where to Buy Tomato Seed

I know you're probably ready to get started, so let's dig in.

Climate and Soil Tomatoes like a nice warm area in full sun, and need at least 8 hours of sunlight a day, or they get spindly and produce little mature fruit. They like soil that has a pH of 5.5 - 6.8, is fertile, deep, well-drained, and that is rich in organic matter. If the soil stays soggy where you want to plant, build a raised bed. You want soil that will hold water as evenly as possible because uneven uptake of water can cause all kinds of problems with tomatoes including: flower drop, fruit splitting and blossom-end rot. To help give your tomatoes the best-suited environment you can, till in a good amount of compost or organic matter. A general guide would be 3 inches (7.6 cm) of organic matter into the top 6 inches (15.2 cm) of soil. You can also grow a cover crop to help build the soil. Plant a grain or legume crop, sometimes called green manure, for the purpose of chopping it down and adding it to the soil. One way is to plant hairy vetch (Vicia villosa), a nitrogen-fixing legume, in your garden bed in the fall. In the spring, cut it down and till the residue into the soil. This provides both nitrogen and an instant mulch that preserves moisture. Lastly, many tomato diseases reside in the soil and affect peppers, eggplants, potatoes, and other crops in the nightshade (Solanaceae) family. To break the disease cycle, and to help get rid of the disease-causing organisms, rotate tomatoes with unrelated crops, such as corn, beans or lettuce.	Click pictures for larger image Well-drained soil in full sun Till in organic matter Use Hairy Vetch as cover crop
Heirlooms and Hybrids What is the difference between Heirlooms and Hybrids? Heirlooms, loosely defined, are open-pollinated cultivars that were introduced many generations ago, and were of such merit, that they have been saved, maintained and handed down. It is generally agreed that no genetically modified plants can be considered heirloom cultivars. Heirlooms are often not as productive as hybrids, but they typically taste better, and you can save their seeds from one season to the next, eventually breeding a variety that is perfectly suited to your conditions. Most heirlooms are "indeterminate" types, meaning they grow long, sprawling vines and produce tomatoes continuously through the season. Hybrids, on the other hand, are tomatoes whose breeding has been controlled, and organized for specific reasons. For example, they often have disease-resistance bred into them that heirlooms lack. In fact hybrid tomato varieties have many advantages compared to open-pollinated varieties. Hybrids usually produce higher yields, they generally mature earlier and more uniformly, and many hybrids have better fruit quality. It's really up to you which you want to plant. If you want to avoid hybrids and plant heirlooms only, look at that tag, there will usually be a "F1" demarcation for hybrids. If you need or want the disease resistant tomatoes, you will have to buy hybrids. To tell what diseases a hybrid can withstand, look at the letters after its name on the plant tag. For example, VFFNTA means the plant is resistant to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium races 1 and 2, root knot Nematodes, Tobacco mosaic virus, and Alternaria stem canker. A plant marked VFFNTA would be a good choice for you to try if diseases have killed your tomatoes in the past.	Click pictures for larger image Heirloom Tomatoes Hybrid - 'Celebrity'
Seeds and Seedlings Seeds In long-season areas, tomatoes can be direct-seeded into the garden, but most people start their seeds indoors 5-6 weeks before the last spring frost, and then plant their seedlings out into the garden. The main advantage of starting tomatoes from seed, is the huge variety of tomatoes you can grow, because you aren't relying on whatever the garden center or nursery has in stock. It's up to you. If you need further information about how to start seeds indoors, please read: Starting Vegetable Seeds Indoors That Thrive Seedlings If you're going to buy your seedlings from the garden center or elsewhere, then look for clean, dark green foliage and a sturdy habit. If the bottom leaves are yellow or brown, or if there are any flowers already showing, the plant is stressed. Look at the leaves and the underside of the leaves closely for any pests. If you see any chew marks, or aphids, don't buy it. Try to buy the healthiest, pest-free, plants available because they will be the most productive plants overall. Always plant seedlings in the garden after all danger of frost has past. In other words, don't be in a rush to plant! Getting a tomato plant into the ground when the soil is cold causes it to turn purple (purple foliage means the plant can't take up phosphorus). Wait a week or two after the average last-frost date. and set them out about 24-36 inches (60-90 cm) apart if you are going to allow the plants to sprawl. If you plan on staking or caging your tomatoes, they can be planted about 15 inches (38 cm) apart.	Click pictures for larger image Direct sow or start seeds indoors Buy healthy seedlings
Planting and Fertilizing I always put down a small amount of balanced organic fertilizer like a 5-5-5 and work it into the soil right before I plant. Generally you don't want to fertilize tomatoes too much until the plant is well established, and in full flower, because too much nitrogen will give you lots of foliage and not a lot of fruit. I have found, however, putting down a small amount of balanced fertilizer gets the plants off to a good, healthy start. Then next time you'll want to fertilize again is when the plants start to flower. Also, spraying your plants with a kelp solution two or three times a season boosts vigor, which helps the vines fend off diseases. Always plant tomatoes deep, and on their sides. Dig out a shallow trench. Remove the lower stems and branches off the tomatoes, leaving only the upper most top leaves. Lay the entire plant down a trench on its side and cover with soil. Leave only the top leaves showing. Don't worry if the foliage is pointing to the side, it will right itself and grow upright in a few days. I plant tomatoes on their sides because the entire stem that is now buried will form roots, giving the plant the best foundation possible and allowing the plant a greater ability to absorb nutrients and water. Plus a larger root system near the soil surface will mean that more heat will be available to the plant, producing earlier tomatoes. A word about cutworms. If you have a big problem with cutworms in your area, you will want to place a "cutworm collar" around the stem where it goes into the soil. You can use a strip of newspaper or an old cardboard toilet paper roll holder. Cutworms chew along the surface and a thin strip of newspaper or cardboard around the plant stem will stop cutworms from chewing through the stem. When you're finished planting, firm the soil down evenly to ensure the plant is well settled.	Click pictures for larger image Put down fertilizer Lay tomatoes on side Strip lower leaves and plant Fill in Use cutworm collars as needed
Watering and Mulching When watering, always keep the water towards the base of the plant, and try and keep the leaves dry. Tomatoes can become infected when airborne spores land on wet plants, so never use an overhead sprinkler. Obviously if it rains you can't do anything about it, but try not to unnecessarily get the plants wet. Water regularly but allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. You want tomatoes to have a regular available water source without keeping them soggy. In areas with high heat, you may need to mulch around the base of the plants to keep the roots from drying out, and help with moisture retention. A study done by the USDA in Beltsville, Maryland, showed that tomatoes mulched with mown vetch produced especially robust root systems and outperformed those mulched with plastic. If you need to mulch, it is recommended to use a 3-4 inch (7.6-10.2 cm) layer of compost or straw. Another tip that I know about, but have never tried, is to seed crimson clover under tomato plants when they are about 2 feet (30.5 cm) tall. The clover acts like a weed-smothering "living mulch" while fixing nitrogen into its root nodules. If you live in a cool climate, and have a very short growing season, you'll also want to mulch, because it helps warm the soil. When tomatoes get too wet or too dry that's when problems start. So try to keep the soil moisture even, without being soggy. I know this is a fine line, so you will have to water to the plant's needs. If they need to be watered every morning because your summer days get to over 100° F (38° C), that's OK. If you live in an area that stays fairly cool all day, then you may need to water only every 2 or 3 days. Just pay attention, and in time you will see a pattern of when your plants need to be watered, and you'll get the hang of it.	Click pictures for larger image Never water from overhead Put down a thick layer of mulch to help keep even soil temperature and moisture
Determinate, Indeterminate, Semi-determinate Determinate tomatoes means they will stop growing, are bushy, and get about 3 feet (.91 m) tall. Examples of this type include 'Pik-Red', 'Peacevine', and 'Super Bush' Indeterminate tomatoes don't stop growing, and produce a lot of suckers from the main stem of the plant. If conditions are good, those suckers can flower and set fruit. Examples of this type of growth habit include 'Big Beef' (most of the beefsteak types), 'Supersonic', 'Early Girl', and 'Big Boy'. Semideterminate plants have habits of both. Examples would be 'Celebrity' and 'Mountain Pride'. OK - so which do you choose to grow? It all depends upon the variety of tomato you want to grow. One isn't better than another, they simply have a different growth habit. The tag on the seedlings or seed packet will tell you what you have. Determinate tomatoes don't need to be caged or put on a trellis, but then again, neither do indeterminate varieties. Whether you use cages or not is really your choice and how much space you have in your garden. I have grown both types of tomatoes, and no matter what kind they are, I let them sprawl on the ground. There are very few insect or disease problems in my area, and the plants thrive. If, however, you live in a moist area where mildew or insects like slugs and snails may be a problem, or you have a small space to work within, then by all means stake your tomatoes and get them up off the ground. If you do chose to stake, cage, or trellis your plants, do so when they are small, so you don't damage branches or roots. For the ties to attach the plants to the cages, use some soft cloth or green growing tape, try not to use anything that will girdle the stem like wire or string.	Click pictures for larger image Determinate tomato 'Bush Beefsteak' Indeterminate tomato 'Brandywine Red' Semi-determinate tomato 'Mountain Pride'
To Pinch out Suckers or Not Some gardeners prune tomatoes by pinching out suckers or the leafy shoots that grow from leaf axils. The leaf axil is the "V" between the central trunk (stem) and lateral branches. Here is how you determine whether to remove suckers or not. If left on the plant, suckers will keep growing and usually produce fruit. It can be helpful sometimes to prune suckers out so the overall plant doesn't get top-heavy, or produce more fruit than the plant can mature in time for fall. Just keep in mind, if you prune them, you will get fewer, but larger fruit. You can let some of the suckers stay on if you want, suckers don't hurt anything. It's up to you how you want your tomatoes to grow. For instance, if your plants are allowed to sprawl along the ground as I do with my tomato plants, I never remove any suckers at all! If you just don't know, try pruning one plant and not another, and see how each one turns out. That way you'll know for sure which technique works best for you.	Click pictures for larger image
Commom Problems & Solutions Cat-facing This is when irregular shapes and lines, especially at the top of the tomato, are caused by temperature shifts and incomplete pollination in cold weather at flowering time. There is nothing you can do about it. The tomato will still taste great. Next time, don't plant too early, or select varieties that resist catfacing. Blossom-end rot This is caused by poor calcium uptake due to inconsistent moisture. If you currently have this problem, remove any rotted or diseased tomatoes, provide consistent moisture, and keep a layer of mulch on the soil. If you live in a super hot area, you need to mulch around your tomatoes to keep them from drying out. They like nice even moisture. Sunscald This can happen any time there is a real spike in the heat. If the fruit is far from ripe, chances are that the entire fruit will rot. Remove damaged tomatoes. Split skin or cracking This can happen any time the plants experience accelerated growth, which can be brought on by a sudden increase in moisture after being too dry, like summer rains after dry periods. To fix, provide consistent moisture, or look for varieties that are resistant to cracking. Another reason you may see splitting or cracking is that the fruit is overripe. There is nothing wrong with these tomatoes, they are great to eat, just keep them picked. In addition to this, many cherry tomatoes crack with the slightest shift in weather, and after heavy rains, and there's not much you can do about it. If you can, try and pick all the ripe ones before it rains. Flowers form, but few or no fruit develops Tomato flowers fall off prematurely when there is a sudden change in the weather because it is too cool, or too hot, or the soil is too dry. Improve the growing conditions. Mulch to keep the soil moisture even. Use Blossom Set, which is a product that is all-natural, and environmentally friendly. It's a natural plant hormone that helps blossoms set fruit in spite of poor weather conditions, and produces larger, meatier tomatoes with fewer seeds. Use early in the season and get tomatoes up to three weeks earlier. When tomato flowers are fully open, spray regularly for bigger yields all season. It can also be used to increase fruit set on cucumbers, melons, eggplants, strawberries, and peppers. Green shoulders Some tomatoes are unimproved old-time varieties and end up with "green shoulders." That's just the way they grow, and there's not much you can do about it. A thick, tough skin develops on the fruit This can happen for a couple of reasons. Varietal differences Many of the more common hybrids have tougher skins bred into them for shipping purposes. So varieties like Roma or Plum tomatoes genetically have thick skin. The Weather Dry or very hot summers tend to produce thick skinned tomatoes, because of extreme heat fluctuations. Even if you're watering the garden regularly, when the sun is hotter, and the air is hotter through the days, it can result in thicker skins as the plants try to conserve moisture. Inconsistent moisture levels in the soil or excessively high air temperatures contribute to the problem as the plants try to conserve moisture. So weather and varietal issues are the main causes, and there really isn't much that can be done, except grow more tomatoes next year and hope for cooler temperatures. Tomato hornworm See our article on this insect and ways to get rid of it: Tomato Hornworm. Early blight This is caused by a fungus that survives during the winter on old vines. To fix, remove and destroy all diseased foliage. In the future, avoid overcrowding by planting farther apart, and prune for good air circulation. You'll also need to rotate tomatoes with unrelated crops, such as corn, beans or lettuce. Late blight This is caused by a fungus that is favored by wet weather. Their spores travel great distances and can infect large areas. Again, avoid overcrowding, and if the infection is severe and widespread, remove and destroy all affected plants. Wilts Fusarium and Verticillium fungi cause parts of the plant to wilt, and can kill it over time. Fusarium wilt causes leaves on one branch of infected plant to turn yellow. Verticillium wilt first appears as yellowing between the major veins on mature leaves. To help this problem, look for resistant varieties to plant, and rotate unrelated crops, such as corn, beans or lettuce. Southern Bacterial Wilt results in sudden plant death; leaves droop (wilt) while plant is still green and otherwise healthy. There is nothing you can do except remove and destroy all debris, and do not plant tomatoes where the disease has occurred in the past. Root-knot nematodes This is caused by microscopic eelworms that live in the soil. In the future, plant resistant varieties, and try rotating tomatoes with marigolds. Select a French variety such as 'Nema-gone', 'Golden Guardian', or 'Tangerine'. Plant the entire affected area heavily with the marigolds, and grow them for at least three months. After three months, till them into the soil.	Click pictures for larger image Early Blight Late Blight Fusarium Wilt Verticillium Wilt Southern Bacterial Wilt Root-Knot Nematodes
Prevent Diseases From Starting Growing healthy tomatoes is really fairly easy, but you will want to keep a few things in mind. Solarize your soil Solarize your soil to control nematodes and weeds. It's also an effective treatment for other pests and disease pathogens. Moisten the area and cover it with a sturdy plastic tarp. To be effective, it must remain in place for at least three to four weeks during the hottest part of the summer. Spray a Kelp Solution Spraying your plants with a kelp solution two or three times a season boosts vigor. Plant marigolds Spider mites love marigolds, and so do rabbits, so planting marigolds might attract pests into your garden which isn't so great. On the other hand, however, marigolds can be used to help soil with nematode problems, as long as it's done properly. You'll want to select a French variety such as 'Nema-Gone', 'Golden Guardian', or 'Tangerine'. Plant the entire affected area heavily with the marigolds, grow them for at least three months, and then till them into the soil. Before you try this, determine if this is a method you want to try considering there are some pros and cons. Rotate Your Crops To avoid soil-borne diseases, place your tomatoes on a three year rotation schedule, and rotate with unrelated crops such as corn, beans or lettuce, or grow a cover crop. This will give you a chance to solarize your soil and break the disease cycle. Make sure you don't plant your tomatoes in the same place that other members of the tomato family (peppers, eggplants, and potatoes) have grown in the past two years in order to keep them healthy. If that is not possible, grow disease-resistant cultivars if you think your soil has diseases like Fusarium or Verticillium wilt. Get Rid of Diseased Plants Never compost plants with diseases because you risk spreading the disease to the rest of your garden. Instead, throw them away or burn diseased plants and any garden debris, like mulch or weeds, that came in contact with them. Plant Disease Resistant Cultivars 'Celebrity' - Has tolerance to alternaria stem canker, fusarium 1 and 2, nematodes, gray leafspot, tomato mosaic virus, and verticillium wilt 'Italian Gold' - Has more tolerance against blossom-end rot 'La Rossa' - Has verticillium and fusarium 1 and 2 tolerance 'Neptune' - Great heat tolerance and resistance to bacteria wilt. This cultivar is also resistant to fusarium wilt race 1 and 2, verticillium wilt race 1, and gray leafspot 'Rutgers VFA' - Known for its resistance to verticillium and fusarium 'Shady Lady VFTA Hybrid' - Is tolerant of verticillium, fusarium, tobacco mosaic virus, and alternaria stem canker 'Stupice' - A very early producing and cold-tolerant tomato 'Sunmaster' - Very heat-tolerant. It will set pollen when the weather is as hot as 87-96° F (31-36° C). It Also has resistance to verticillium, fusarium 1 and 2, and alternaria	Click pictures for larger image Solarize your soil Plant 'Nema-Gone' Marigolds Rotate tomatoes with unrelated crops like corn Plant resistant varities like 'Sunmaster'
Harvesting Pick fruit when it is a solid color (red, yellow, etc.) from top to bottom, but still firm. Also, pick often. In fact, you may need to harvest daily or every other day. Keep an eye on how the fruit is developing. Also, cold can degrade tomato flavor, so store tomatoes on your kitchen counter, where the temperatures are above 50° F (10° C), instead of in your refrigerator's crisper. The best-tasting tomatoes have a balanced ratio of sugar to acid, and the sugars increase as the fruit colors. In fact, tomatoes that ripen during the longer days of summer have more sugar than those that mature during the shorter days of late summer, and therefore can taste better. How to Ripen Green Tomato Tricks If when the fall months come there are still several green or partially ripe tomatoes on your vines, but not enough warmth and sun to mature them properly, don't give up on them! There are two ways to ripen green tomatoes properly. 1. Always ripen tomatoes indoors! Tomatoes ripen from the bottom to the top and from the inside out. So never put them on a windowsill. That will only turn them red, not ripe. What you want to do is put them in a warm, dark spot and cover them with a single sheet of newspaper. These conditions are the ones tomatoes need most to continue their ripening process, which is internal. Light at this point is not necessary any longer. 2. Try root pruning. Take a large carving knife and cut a semicircle around the plant, 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the stem of the plant, and about 8 inches (20.3 cm) deep. This cuts some, but not all of the root system, enough to shock it into forcing all the plant's final strength into ripening its fruit. Only do this near the end of the season, or if it makes you nervous, just try this on one of your plants to see how it works.	Click pictures for larger image Harvest when solid in color and firm These green tomatoes can all be ripened indoors
Popular Tomato Varieties Several tomatoes have been rated for flavor. Here are a few varieties that are consistently voted winners: Heirlooms 'Brandywine' - Red 'Brandywine OTV' - Big, red, and juicy 'Caspian Pink' - Beefsteak-type tomato with pinkish red fruit 'Constoluto Genovese' - Red ribbed fruit 'Hillbilly' - Yellow and red streaked fruit 'Radiator Charlie's Mortgage Lifter' - Pinkish red fruit Red Tomatoes 'Arkansas Traveler' - Good for hot-weather 'Carmello' - FVNT hybrid 'Celebrity' - VFFTNA hybrid 'Early Girl' - VFF, early and dependable 'Stupice' - Good for the Northwest, where fruit set is a problem Colored Tomatoes 'Cherokee Purple' - Large pink-purple fruit 'Garden Peach' - Small yellow fruit, slightly fuzzy skin 'Jaune Flamee' - Small deep orange fruit 'Lemon Boy' - VFN hybrid with mild yellow fruit 'Paul Robeson' - Midsize dusky dark red fruit Plum Tomatoes 'Amish Paste' - Medium-large red 'Margherita' - VF hybrid 'Speckled Roman' - Meaty, striped yellow and orange fruit Cherry and Grape Tomatoes 'Sungold' - FT hybrid with yellow fruit 'Isis Candy' - Marbled red-orange fruit 'Matt's Wild Cherry' - Early red cherry / grape 'Super Sweet 100' - VF hybrid 'Cupid' - Fast hybrid red grape Upcoming Variety Recent studies have shown that tomatoes are high in vitamins A and C, but more importantly they are high in lycopene. Lycopene is what is responsible for producing the red color, and some studies have shown that lycopene in tomatoes is linked with a decreased risk of cancer. Since then, plant breeders have been working to produce a tomato that has high amounts lycopene with its cancer-fighting antioxidant, but also keeps a good, flavorful tomato taste. Not always so easy to do. Apparently Jay Scott, Ph.D., of the University of Florida has developed a tomato variety called 'Flora-Lee,' which contains 25 percent more lycopene than regular cultivars, and is resistant to tomato diseases, and most importantly, it still has a good tomato flavor. Dr. Scott says the seed for 'Flora-Lee' should be available by the end of 2007. This will be interesting to try out and see if what is said about the new variety is true.	Click pictures for larger image 'Brandywine' 'Arkansas Traveler' 'Cherokee Purple' 'Sungold'
Conclusion Because we put together our Vegetable Gardening Section after this article was written, we were able to add a few more specific details of newer information. Use this article in combination with some updated Tomato Growing Information, and there is no way you can not grow perfect, juicy and flawless tomatoes anywhere! Just go to: Growing Tomatoes

Hilary Rinaldi is a certified organic grower, and a member of the national Garden Writers Association.
Courtesy : weekendgardener.net

Growing tomatoes : 02

River Cottage's head gardener, Mark Diacono, explains how to grow the perfect crop of tomatoes

Pomodorino tomatoes growing in a West Sussex nursery. Photograph: Richard Saker

Growing tomatoes is a tricky business. We have no idea if we'll have a sweltering summer like 1976 or if rain will come and encourage blight. Or perhaps we'll have an Indian summer to nudge what you thought would never get there into perfect ripeness. Never mind: you can take a few steps to improve your chances of a perfect crop.

• Always grow three or four varieties at least - some will suit your locality better than others, they may be differently susceptible to disease, and you may well prefer the taste of some varieties.

• Good varieties are essential - if you're unsure about what to go for, start with Gardener's Delight (a fabulous cherry tom), San Marzano (plum) and Costoluto Fiorentino (v large).

• Tomatoes are riskier grown outside rather than in a greenhouse or polytunnel - if you're thinking of chancing it then go for cherry tomatoes or Black Krim, both of which ripen more quickly outside than others.

• Grow your tomatoes in a location that has as much direct sun and shelter from winds as you can.

• Early in spring (or as late in winter as you dare), sow seeds into Jiffy 7s and pot them on when the first true leaves develop, before planting them out when 20cm tall.

• Add compost or well-rotted manure to the soil you will be planting them in.

• Companion planting works wonderfully with tomatoes. Sow basil underneath as a sacrificial (white fly is drawn to it rather than your toms) or try garlic, nasturtiums or tagetes to repel aphids.

• Your plants will need support to grow strongly - use canes for tall varieties and/or netting for bushes.

• Water the soil, not the plant - tomato leaves and stems hate getting wet.

• Every week or so from when flowering starts, give your plant a seaweed or comfrey feed - the developing fruit will love the potassium.

• Water little and often - it encourages steady growth and helps to avoid split fruit.

• Sink a pipe vertically into the ground when you plant out. Tomatoes have two sets of roots: some at the surface that feed and lower ones that drink in water. The pipe gets the water down to where it counts quickly.

• Pinch out any shoots that develop between stem and main branches - they take up valuable energy from the developing fruit.

• Cut off the top of plants, certainly of outdoor ones, when six trusses of fruit set - this helps to focus the plant's energies.

• Bring any tomatoes that are still shy of ripeness at the end of the summer indoors and put a banana with them - the ethylene given off by the banana helps them ripen.

• I like to pick leaves off around the tomatoes when they've reached full size but have yet to start changing colour - this gets the sun to the fruit, increases air flow, and minimises disease.

• If you've just got the bug for growing some of your food, or your seedlings have struggled or been munched, you can still catch up by sourcing seedlings from places like Rocket Gardens or Delfland.

• Don't give yourself a hard time if you pick a few and they taste a little disappointing - tomatoes are notoriously sensitive to place and weather. There are hundreds of sugars, acids and volatile chemicals that we perceive when we taste a tomato, many of which are held separately within the structure of the fruit and mingle at ripeness (with its gentle collapse of cell walls). Judging the instant is a matter of trial and error. So pick one that looks right - if it's wonderful then pick the rest at a similar stage.

• I'll whisper this bit in case a real gardener's reading: if the fiddling about sounds like hard work, ignore it. Choosing great varieties and starting them off well in a good spot will get you most of the way to a great harvest. The second year I grew tomatoes I didn't bother with feeding, pinching, chopping the tops off, or companion planting for half of the plants I grew and, although the harvest wasn't as large as with the other half, it was fine.

• The most important thing is to grow some and take your time around harvest. A perfectly ripe homegrown tomato, eaten sun-warm from the bush, really is unrecognisable from the ones you buy in the shops.

Basic tips for successful germination

Starting Plants from Seeds

Erv Evans, Extension Associate
Frank A. Blazich, Professor
Department of Horticultural Science

Growing your own transplants from seeds indoors can give you a head start on the growing season. In some cases, it may be the only way to obtain plants of a new or special cultivar (variety) that is not widely available through garden centers.
To obtain vigorous plants, start with high-quality seed from a reliable source. Select cultivars which provide the plant size, color (flower, foliage, or fruit), and growth habit you want. Choose cultivars adapted to your area. Many vegetable and flower cultivars are hybrids. They may cost more than open pollinated types, but they usually have more vigor, more uniformity, and better growth than non-hybrids.
Purchase only enough seed for one year's use, because germination decreases with age. The seed packet label usually indicates essential information about the cultivar, the year in which the seeds were packaged, the germination percentage, and whether the seeds have received any chemical treatment.
If seeds are obtained well ahead of the actual sowing date (or are surplus seeds), store them in a cool, dry place. Laminated foil packages help ensure dry storage. Paper packets are best kept in tightly sealed containers and maintained around 40^oF in low humidity. A good storage location would be an air-tight jar or a sealed, Zip-Lock-type bag in the refrigerator. Some gardeners save seed from their own gardens, but these may not produce plants similar to the parents; this is especially true of hybrids.
Germination
Germination is the resumption of active embryo growth after a dormant period. Three conditions must be satisfied in order for a seed to germinate:

• The seed must be viable (the embryo must be alive and capable of germination).
• Internal conditions of the seed must be favorable for germination, that is, any physical, chemical, or physiological barriers to germination must have disappeared or must have been removed by the propagator.
• The seed must be subjected to appropriate environmental conditions, including water (moisture), proper temperature, oxygen, and for some species, light (see Table 1).

Table 1. Germination information for selected plants: approximate time to seed before last frost, days for germination, optimum temperature for germination, and light requirements.

Plant	Approximate Time to Seed  Before Last Frost Date (Weeks)	Time Seeds Take to Germinate (Days)	Temperature (oF)	Light/Dark Requirement
Ageratum	8	5 to 10	70	Light
Alyssum	8	5 to 10	70	Either
Aster	6	5 to 10	70	Either
Balsam	6	5 to 10	70	Either
Begonia	12 or more	10 to 15	70	Light
Broccoli	8	5 to 10	70	Either
Browallia	12 or more	15 to 20	70	Light
Cabbage	8	5 to 10	70	Either
Cauliflower	8	5 to 10	70	Either
Celosia	8	5 to 10	70	Either
Centurea	6	5 to 10	65	Dark
Coleus	8	5 to 10	65	Light
Cosmos	4 or less	5 to 10	70	Either
Cucumber	4 or less	5 to 10	85	Either
Dahlia	8	5 to 10	70	Either
Dianthus	10	5 to 10	70	Either
Eggplant	8	5 to 10	70	Either
Geranium	12 or more	10 to 20	70	Light
Impatiens	10	15 to 20	70	Light
Larkspur	12 or more	5 to 10	55	Dark
Lettuce	8	5 to 10	70	Light
Marigold	6	5 to 10	70	Either
Muskmelon	4 or less	5 to 10	85	Either
Nicotiana	8	10 to 15	70	Light
Pansy (Viola)	12 or more	5 to 10	65	Dark
Pepper	8	5 to 10	80	Either
Petunia	10	5 to 10	70	Light
Phlox	8	5 to 10	65	Dark
Portulaca	10	5 to 10	70	Dark
Snapdragon	10	5 to 10	65	Light
Squash	4 or less	5 to 10	85	Either
Stock	10	10 to 15	70	Either
Tomato	6	5 to 10	80	Either
Verbena	10	15 to 20	65	Dark
Vinca	12 or more	10 to 15	70	Either
Watermelon	4 or less	5 to 10	85	Either
Zinnia	6	5 to 10	70	Either

Water -- The first step in germination is absorption of water. An adequate, continuous supply of moisture is important to ensure germination. Once germination has begun, a dry period can kill the embryo.
Temperature -- Affects the germination percentage and the rate (speed) of germination. Some seeds will germinate over a wide range of temperatures, others have a narrow range. Many species have minimum, maximum, and optimum temperatures at which they germinate. For example, seeds of tomato have a minimum germination temperature of 50^oF, a maximum of 95^oF, and an optimum germination temperature of 80^oF. When germination temperatures are listed, they are usually optimum temperatures. Generally, 65^oF to 75^oF is best for most plants.
Oxygen -- Respiration in dormant seeds is low, but they do require some oxygen. Respiration rate increases during germination. The medium in which the seeds are sown should be loose and well aerated. If the oxygen supply during germination is limited or reduced, germination can be severely retarded or inhibited.
Light -- Can stimulate or inhibit seed germination of some species. Seeds that require light for germination include: ageratum, begonia, browallia, impatiens, lettuce, and petunia. Other plants germinate best in the dark. These include calendula, centaurea, annual phlox, and verbena. Some plants germinate in either light or dark conditions. Seed catalogs and seed packets often list germination and cultural information for particular plants. When sowing light-requiring seeds, sow them on the medium surface. Supplemental light can be provided by fluorescent fixtures suspended 6 to 12 inches above the medium for 16 hours a day.
Media
A wide range of media can be used to germinate seeds. With experience, you will learn to determine what works best for you. The germinating medium should be rather fine in texture and of uniform consistency, yet well aerated and loose. It should be free of insects, disease organisms, nematodes, weeds, and weed seeds. It should also be of low fertility and capable of holding moisture, but yet be well drained. Purchase commercial potting media containing fine particle pinebark, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite, or prepare a combination of equal parts (by volume) of these materials. Do not use garden soil to start seedlings; it is not sterile, it is too heavy, and it does not drain well. Commercial mixes have low fertility, so seedlings must be watered with a dilute fertilizer solution soon after germination and emergence. Use 1/4 to 1/2 of the recommended rate.
Containers for Germination and Growth
Plastic cell packs can be purchased or reused if sterilized. When using cell packs, each cell holds a single plant. This method reduces the risk of root injury when transplanting. Peat pellets, peat pots, or expanded foam cubes can also be used for producing seedlings. Resourceful gardeners often use cottage cheese containers, the bottoms of milk cartons or bleach containers. Just make certain that adequate drainage holes are made in the bottoms of the containers and the containers are sterile.
The importance of using sterile medium and containers can not be overemphasized. Before using containers, wash them to remove any debris and then immerse them in a solution of one part chlorine bleach to nine parts water for 5 minutes and allow to dry.
Sowing Seeds
Seedlings are often started indoors 4 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. A common mistake is to sow the seeds too early and then attempt to hold the seedlings under poor environmental conditions (light and temperature). This usually results in tall, weak, spindly plants that do not perform well in the garden. The following provides general guidelines for sowing seeds for transplants. However, it is important to refer to the instructions on the seed packet for more specific information.
When sowing seeds, fill the container to within 3/4 inch of the top with moistened, growing medium. For very small seeds, use a fine, screened medium such as a layer of fine vermiculite for the top 1/4 inch. Firm the medium at the corners and edges with your fingers or a block of wood to provide a smooth and level surface.
For medium and large seeds, make furrows 1 to 2 inches apart an 1/8 to 1/4 inches deep across the surface of the planting medium. Sowing in rows improves light and air movement. If damping-off disease occurs, there is less chance of it spreading. Seedlings in rows are easier to label and handle at transplanting than those that have resulted from broadcasting seeds. Sow the seeds thinly and uniformly in the rows by gently tapping the packet of seed. Cover the seeds lightly; a suitable planting depth is usually about two to four times the minimum diameter of the seeds.
Extremely fine seed such as petunia, begonia, and snapdragon should not be covered, but simply dusted on the surface of the germinating medium and watered with a fine mist. If these seeds are broadcast, strive for a uniform stand by sowing half the seeds in one direction, then sowing the remaining seeds in the other direction.
Large seeds are frequently sown directly in a small container or cell pack; this eliminates the need for early transplanting. Usually 2 or 3 seeds are sown per cell. Later, thin them to allow only the most vigorous seedling to grow.
Watering
Moisten the planting medium thoroughly before planting. After seeding, spray with a fine mist or place the containers in a pan or tray that contains about 1 inch of warm water. Avoid splashing or excessive flooding, which might displace small seeds. When the planting mix is saturated, set the container aside to drain. The medium should be moist but not overly wet.
The seed flats must remain sufficiently moist during the germination period. Excessive moisture, however, can lead to damping-off or other disease or insect problems. Place the whole flat or pot into a clear plastic bag to maintain moisture. The plastic should be at least 1 inch above the soil. Keep the container out of direct sunlight; otherwise, the temperature may increase and injure the seeds. Many home gardeners cover the flats with panes of glass instead of using a plastic bag. Be sure to remove the plastic bag or glass cover when the first seedlings emerge.
After the seeds have germinated, move the flats to a well-lighted location; the temperature should be 65°F to 70°F during the day and 55°F to 60°F at night. This will prevent soft, leggy growth and minimize disease problems. Some crops, of course, may grow best at different temperatures.
Seedlings must receive bright light after germination. Low light intensity will result in weak, spindly, pale green seedlings. Place them in a south-facing window. If a large, bright location is not available, place the seedlings under fluorescent lights. Use two, 40-watt, cool-white fluorescent tubes or special plant growth lamps. Position the plants 6 inches from the tubes and provide 16 hours of light daily. As the seedlings grow, the lights should be raised.
Transplanting
As the seedlings grow, they will require more space. Plants not seeded in individual containers must be transplanted. A common mistake is to leave the seedlings in the flat too long. The ideal time to transplant young seedlings is when the first true leaves appear, usually 2 to 3 weeks after seeding.
Containers should be economical, durable, and make efficient use of available space. Individual pots or plastic cell packs can be used. Another possibility is compressed peat pellets which expand to form compact individual units when soaked in water. They waste no space, do not fall apart as easily as peat pots, and can be set out directly in the garden. If you wish to avoid transplanting seedlings altogether, compressed peat pellets are excellent for direct sowing.
Dig up the small plants carefully with a knife or plant label. Let the group of seedlings fall apart and pick out individual plants. Ease them apart gently; avoid root injury in the process. Handle small seedlings by their leaves, not their delicate stems (Figure 1). Punch a hole in the medium into which the seedling will be planted. Plant a seedling at the same depth it was growing in the seed flat. Firm the medium and water gently. Newly transplanted seedlings should not be placed in bright, intense light for a few days after transplanting; shading may be needed. Keep them away from sources of direct heat. Continue watering and fertilizing as in the seed flats.
Figure 1. Hardening Plants
Hardening is the process of conditioning a plant for growth outdoors. If plants produced inside are planted outdoors without undergoing a hardening period, their growth could be severely limited. Hardening is most critical with early spring crops, when adverse climatic conditions can be expected.
Hardening is accomplished by decreasing temperature and relative humidity gradually, and reducing water. This procedure results in accumulation of carbohydrates and thickening of cell walls. A change from a soft, succulent type of growth to a firmer, harder type is desired.
The process should be started at least 2 weeks before planting in the garden. Place plants outside in a protected area on warm days, and increase the length of exposure gradually. Do not put tender plants outdoors on windy days or when temperatures are below 45°F. Even cold-hardy plants will be injured if exposed to freezing temperatures before they are hardened.
The hardening process is intended to slow plant growth; but if carried to an extreme, significant damage can occur. For example, cauliflower will produce thumb-size heads and fail to develop further if hardened too severely; cucumbers and melons will stop growing entirely.
Further Reading:

• Bryant, G. 1995. Propagation Handbook. Stackpole Books: Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania.
• Dirr, M. A. and C. W. Heuser, Jr. 1987. The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation: From Seed to Tissue Culture. Varsity Press: Athens, Georgia.
• Hartmann, H. T., D. E. Kester, and F.T. Davies, Jr.and R. L. Geneve. 1996. Plant Propagation, Principles and Practices, 6th ed. Prentice Hall: Upper Saddle River, New Jersey.
• McMillan Browse, P. D. A.. 1978. Plant Propagation. Simon and Schuster: New York.
• Nau, J. 1993. Ball Cultural Guide: The Encyclopedia of Seed Germination, 2nd ed. Ball Publishing: Batavia, Illinois.
• Toogood, A. 1993. Plant Propagation Made Easy. Timber Press: Portland, Oregon.

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